Ford Mondeo

[pred]

Every so often our Mondeo dog carrier has started making an odd sound when we start the engine, it sounds almost like its going backwards or a couple of spark plugs are knacked but its a 2002 diesel with 120k on the clock, the duo mass flywheel was replaced last year, if it does play up we simply switch off and restart and it runs fine, we have not been feeding it petrol before you ask I understand that the fuel pump can go wrong on these engines, has anyone had similar problems? Is it time for Mrs Pred to get a new dog carrier?

 

[LastMagicBean]

Unreliable, nasty, vindictive things.

Tell her she can't have a new car.

 

[JBR]

A diesel with spark plugs?

 

[pred]

A diesel with spark plugs?

I said it SOUNDS LIKE the faulty spark plugs..


Similar to it sounds like a midget with a hammer!!








Qantas Airlines: Repair Division

In case you need a laugh:

Remember, it takes a University degree to fly a plane but only a high school diploma to fix one.
After every flight, Qantas pilots fill out a form, called a 'Gripe Sheet' which tells mechanics about problems with the aircraft.
The mechanics correct the problems; document their repairs on the form, and then pilots review the Gripe Sheets before the next flight.

Never let it be said that ground crews lack a sense of humour.

Here are some actual maintenance complaints submitted by Qantas' pilots (marked with a P) and the solutions recorded (marked with an S) by maintenance engineers.


P: Left inside main tyre almost needs replacement.
S: Almost replaced left inside main tyre.

P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough.
S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft.

P: Something loose in cockpit.
S: Something tightened in cockpit.

P: Dead bugs on windshield.
S: Live bugs on back-order.

P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent.
S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.

P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
S: Evidence removed.

P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
S: DME volume set to more believable level.

P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
S: That's what friction locks are for.

P: IFF inoperative in OFF mode.
S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.

P: Suspected crack in windshield.
S: Suspect you're right.

P: Number 3 engine missing..
S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.

P: Aircraft handles funny............
S: Aircraft warned to smarten up, fly correctly, and be serious.

P: Target radar hums.
S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics.

P: Mouse in cockpit.
S: Cat installed.

And the best one for last..................

P: Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds like a midget pounding on something with a hammer.
S: Took hammer away from midget.

 

[chapeau]

Belt tensioner?

 

[pred]

It's more like fuel starvation.

 

[snico]

Could be the injectors, does it go into limp mode with flashing glow plug light?

Also the turbo on them engines are prone to sieze up with carbon, should be a small arm on the turbo that moves forward when you turn the ignition on, not actually start the engine.

If that dont move forward freely then it could be causing your problems, with low boost.

You can take the small metal ring off it, and move it back by hand, it should feel so loose that you would think it was broke inside, should not be any resistance in it at all.

 

[chapeau]

It's more like fuel starvation.

Put fuel in it then.

 

[peterperfection]

IT IS FUEL PUMP.
Here is another PP tip.
Put a slosh of 2 stroke oil in your fuel tank when you fill up. Too much 2 stroke oil in wont hurt it.
It lubricates the fuel pump and helps keep injectors clean.
Trust me- I am PP. and I know .

All knowing guys who drive Ford diesels do it .
Good luck.
ps- it will cure your problem.

 

[peterperfection]

Could be the injectors, does it go into limp mode with flashing glow plug light?

Also the turbo on them engines are prone to sieze up with carbon, should be a small arm on the turbo that moves forward when you turn the ignition on, not actually start the engine.

If that dont move forward freely then it could be causing your problems, with low boost.

You can take the small metal ring off it, and move it back by hand, it should feel so loose that you would think it was broke inside, should not be any resistance in it at all.

Turbo actuator arm can be helped by buying a 'mity vac' . Take flexi pipe off turbo--connect mity vac--or similar vac --and work the actuator 'by the mity vac lots of times to free it up.
Also- replace your rubber vac pipes (ALL VAC PIPES) WITH SILICONE HOSES ..
That will eliminate vac leaks--if they are present .

Your probem though is NOT Turbo.
It is Fuel pump-- which will be cured by adding 2 stroke oil to your fuel.

 

[JBR]

OK PP. You've given some excellent advice both on here and on the thread about patio cleaners.

Now my problem.

My AC has packed up (2003 Skoda Fabia 1.9 Tdi). Is there a quick and cheap way to fix it?

Please don't tell me to scrap the car (because it's a Skoda). In all other respects it's brilliant.

 

[peterperfection]

OK PP. You've given some excellent advice both on here and on the thread about patio cleaners.

Now my problem.

My AC has packed up (2003 Skoda Fabia 1.9 Tdi). Is there a quick and cheap way to fix it?

Please don't tell me to scrap the car (because it's a Skoda). In all other respects it's brilliant.

Does the 'ECO' light stay on when you try to switch on aircon ?.

Tell me a few symptoms--and I will probably know what it is and be glad to help you .

ps--I have a Audi 1.9 tdi .

 

[snico]

Could be the injectors, does it go into limp mode with flashing glow plug light?

Also the turbo on them engines are prone to sieze up with carbon, should be a small arm on the turbo that moves forward when you turn the ignition on, not actually start the engine.

If that dont move forward freely then it could be causing your problems, with low boost.

You can take the small metal ring off it, and move it back by hand, it should feel so loose that you would think it was broke inside, should not be any resistance in it at all.

Turbo actuator arm can be helped by buying a 'mity vac' . Take flexi pipe off turbo--connect mity vac--or similar vac --and work the actuator 'by the mity vac lots of times to free it up.
Also- replace your rubber vac pipes (ALL VAC PIPES) WITH SILICONE HOSES ..
That will eliminate vac leaks--if they are present .

Your probem though is NOT Turbo.
It is Fuel pump-- which will be cured by adding 2 stroke oil to your fuel.

A mity vac wont fix siezed turbo vanes, no matter how much you use it. It will need stripping and cleaning. Or you can add some Innotec turbo cleaner which is the only decent turbo cleaner you can buy.

Money is on the injectors or turbo. Could also be something simple like your fuel filter, very easy to replace on the TDCi, but make sure you fit a Bosch or Delphi filter, these engines hate any other brand.

You could take it to a Delphi specialist who will diagnose the exact problem, dont take it to a ford dealer, Delphi agents know these engines better than Fords do!

 

[peterperfection]

Could be the injectors, does it go into limp mode with flashing glow plug light?

Also the turbo on them engines are prone to sieze up with carbon, should be a small arm on the turbo that moves forward when you turn the ignition on, not actually start the engine.

If that dont move forward freely then it could be causing your problems, with low boost.

You can take the small metal ring off it, and move it back by hand, it should feel so loose that you would think it was broke inside, should not be any resistance in it at all.

Turbo actuator arm can be helped by buying a 'mity vac' . Take flexi pipe off turbo--connect mity vac--or similar vac --and work the actuator 'by the mity vac lots of times to free it up.
Also- replace your rubber vac pipes (ALL VAC PIPES) WITH SILICONE HOSES ..
That will eliminate vac leaks--if they are present .

Your probem though is NOT Turbo.
It is Fuel pump-- which will be cured by adding 2 stroke oil to your fuel.

A mity vac wont fix siezed turbo vanes, no matter how much you use it. It will need stripping and cleaning. Or you can add some Innotec turbo cleaner which is the only decent turbo cleaner you can buy.

Money is on the injectors or turbo. Could also be something simple like your fuel filter, very easy to replace on the TDCi, but make sure you fit a Bosch or Delphi filter, these engines hate any other brand.

You could take it to a Delphi specialist who will diagnose the exact problem, dont take it to a ford dealer, Delphi agents know these engines better than Fords do!

On these engines turbo DOES NOT seize up due to carbon.
Small arm on Turbo-- does NOT move forward when you turn ignition on.
You are getting mixed up with EGR. Turbo arm works by vaccum fed from N 75 valve on VW engines.

Innotech is crap- just like Mr Muscle is --I KNOW--I have tried them both .
Vanes do not coke up- unless they are variable vanes -and not all 1.9tdis have variable vanes .

Bugger this - I am now confused which engine we are talking about .

Ford-- VW ?. I know about both-- but
sod it- I'm having a brew and off to bed in 5 mins .

Air con--or turbos-- let me know if you want help.

 

[JBR]

OK PP. You've given some excellent advice both on here and on the thread about patio cleaners.

Now my problem.

My AC has packed up (2003 Skoda Fabia 1.9 Tdi). Is there a quick and cheap way to fix it?

Please don't tell me to scrap the car (because it's a Skoda). In all other respects it's brilliant.

Does the 'ECO' light stay on when you try to switch on aircon ?.

Tell me a few symptoms--and I will probably know what it is and be glad to help you .

ps--I have a Audi 1.9 tdi .

Thanks PP.

I don't have an 'ECO' light, or at least I'm not aware of one. The 'AC' light on the button does light up, but the air coming out of the vents is no cooler than when it's switched off.

It worked OK last summer and I haven't used it since until recently.

I have heard that AC units sometimes need 'charging up' (I think), but I gather it's an expensive job. I'm hoping it might be something else.