Freelander (2003) tie bars and track rod ends.
- Thread starter htafc
- Start date
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Its only easy if you have the right tools
Iwish you luck
Iwish you luck
Besides the correct spanners you will need a ball-joint separator, and a pipe wrench or something similar to grip the rod when unscrewing the lock nut (unless there's some other provision for this on your vehicle).
The last time I had to do one (on a Peugeot) i wouldn't have finished the job without an air impact wrench. But I could have used a hacksaw, perhaps.
It's important when dismantling to count the number turns you need to make to unscrew the ball-joint, and to move the lock nut, so that you can adjust the new one to approximately the right place, then drive to your nearest tyre fitters to get the tracking adjusted correctly.
Why not get the Haynes manual? It could save you a lot of aggro.
The last time I had to do one (on a Peugeot) i wouldn't have finished the job without an air impact wrench. But I could have used a hacksaw, perhaps.
It's important when dismantling to count the number turns you need to make to unscrew the ball-joint, and to move the lock nut, so that you can adjust the new one to approximately the right place, then drive to your nearest tyre fitters to get the tracking adjusted correctly.
Why not get the Haynes manual? It could save you a lot of aggro.
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As far as I know, there are three types of separator (my descriptions are my own, not the technically correct ones):
1. the wedged fork, designed to be whacked in with a hammer
2. the simple press tool, that uses a screw acting directly on the stud of the ball-joint, to push it out
3. the side lever type, which has a fulcrum to provide mechanical advantage to push the joint apart
Unfortunately, I don't have enough experience to tell you which is best. My guess is that 1. might be crude but effective, provided you have room to swing a heavy hammer (I have a fork tool, but have never actually used it); 2. (the type I use) is compact and will work OK so long as the joint isn't very badly stuck; 3. I guess must apply more force but is more expensive and needs enough clearance to allow you to deploy it.
Perhaps someone who has a better idea of which to use could add some advice.
1. the wedged fork, designed to be whacked in with a hammer
2. the simple press tool, that uses a screw acting directly on the stud of the ball-joint, to push it out
3. the side lever type, which has a fulcrum to provide mechanical advantage to push the joint apart
Unfortunately, I don't have enough experience to tell you which is best. My guess is that 1. might be crude but effective, provided you have room to swing a heavy hammer (I have a fork tool, but have never actually used it); 2. (the type I use) is compact and will work OK so long as the joint isn't very badly stuck; 3. I guess must apply more force but is more expensive and needs enough clearance to allow you to deploy it.
Perhaps someone who has a better idea of which to use could add some advice.
a whack with the fbh is usually enough to free off the track rod ends,not on the threaded section but the housing it goes into
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