Hi all,
I have a old freestanding electric double over with hob that I was hoping to replace with a single built in oven and hob.
The old cooker is connected to a spur below the counter and a 6mm2 T&E tail to the appliance.
The spur above is connected to a red cooker switch with a 10mm2 T&E, which then leads to the CU on a separate 30amp circuit with 10mm2.
I purchased a 16amp 2.9kW oven, and 6.6kW hob. Sadly, the oven has been shipped with a 13amp plug(!), even though it never mentioned it would.
Before I send this thing back and waste time I thought I would ask you clever lot if it was possible to still hardwire this oven regardless? I don't want the extra expense of getting in an eletrictian to add addition 13amp switched FCU.
Surely if the load ia fixed then I should be good to simply hardwire both the exiting spur.
If you need any additional images, I will be happy to include.
Cheers
Byron
I have a old freestanding electric double over with hob that I was hoping to replace with a single built in oven and hob.
The old cooker is connected to a spur below the counter and a 6mm2 T&E tail to the appliance.
The spur above is connected to a red cooker switch with a 10mm2 T&E, which then leads to the CU on a separate 30amp circuit with 10mm2.
I purchased a 16amp 2.9kW oven, and 6.6kW hob. Sadly, the oven has been shipped with a 13amp plug(!), even though it never mentioned it would.
Before I send this thing back and waste time I thought I would ask you clever lot if it was possible to still hardwire this oven regardless? I don't want the extra expense of getting in an eletrictian to add addition 13amp switched FCU.
Surely if the load ia fixed then I should be good to simply hardwire both the exiting spur.
If you need any additional images, I will be happy to include.
Cheers
Byron