Freezing Cold due to Woodburning/Multifuel Stove handle faulty and rope messed up

@SFK - which plate are you referring to? Don't suppose you can mark it for me?

@freddiemercurystwin - I'm willing to try this, although a little apprehensive that I might do more damage than good.
 
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Or use the two spanner method:


If you don't have a few spanners then I don't know what you've been using to try to undo it, perhaps time to call in a professional if you're not confident .....
 
what to do with the handle which I'm struggling to remove or repair?
My apologies - I noticed that I did not actually answer your question.

I would be doing what Freddie suggested before getting hack saw.
A good real spanner or better see if a friend has a car socket set.

I meant that the locking plate (behind the bolt) looks in you image a lot more bent than the the item I found on ebay.

Screenshot 2023-11-13 at 11.58.44.png


vs

Screenshot 2023-11-13 at 12.03.09.png


SFK
 
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I do feel that the plate is bent - but not sure.
If you cannot get the nut off with a long spanner, then it might have to be a hack saw and a new handle.
Agreed, it should be flat.

 
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I never said that I've not got a spanner or a ratchet set, haha. What I said was that I was a bit apprehensive in trying to open it and it looks like my fears have turned out to be true. I've used a ratchet set to prise open the nut and the bolt/nut has now snapped. The nut is stuck in the ratchet socket and the handle is now stuck, missing a nut. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?

As for the plate being flat - I'm not too sure about that because it seems to have a natural curve which I believe helps press the door to close tighter as the handle is turned. But maybe I could be wrong.


IMG_20231113_124233.jpg
IMG_20231113_124312.jpg
 
It looks like it's time for a new handle assembly, courtesy of SFK's post!
To shift the stuck nut in the socket, support the socket on a vice jaw or similar and you'll be able to drift the broken piece out.
John :)
 
Just need a pair of pliers on the plate to wriggle it off, the photos of the new one all show the plate being flat. Sockets often have a hole in the middle, in which case you can stick something in to drift the nut out, otherwise you should be able to gradually lever the nut out of the socket by using a tiny screwdriver or similar.
 
Zooming in on that photo I'd say your socket is a tad too big for the nut, hence it's now jammed in. But the above posts still stand.
 
Thanks @Burnerman and @freddiemercurystwin - I've give this a try and let you know how I get on. I'm going to first order the handle before removing the old one as removing it now will mean the door will remain open and all the draft will be rushing up the chimney.

I tried the 12mm socket which was too small and 13mm is the next size which fitted.

Regarding the rope - Do you recommend I use the cement type of glue or can you recommend another one as I've heard that silicon based glue is supposed to be better due to it's flexibility.
 
13mm is the logical size assuming an M8 thread so guess you're right. I wonder if its an imperial 5/16" thread :unsure: (they are made in Yorkshire) in which case 1/2 socket would be right (which is a tad smaller than 13mm).
 
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13mm is the logical size assuming an M8 thread so guess you're right. I wonder if its an imperial 7/16" thread :unsure: (they are made in Yorkshire) in which case 1/2 socket would be right (which is a tad smaller than 13mm).
I've definitely checked it and it's 13mm :)

Anyway I've ordered the handle, rope and adhesive, but I must say that the Dunsley staff are really rude and pushy. I gave all my details, including the bank card and at the end I'm told that the parts won't even be dispatched until the end of the week. What's the point of that? Cost me close to £75. Should have ordered them from somewhere else.
 
Regarding the rope and cement, I buy the small bottles of white glue designed just to hold the rope.
The rope diameter is important, and you can also get some tape to wrap around the rope ends after it is cut.....prevents fraying.
The threads on some stoves are Whitworth - maybe yours is similar.
John
 
Regarding the rope and cement, I buy the small bottles of white glue designed just to hold the rope.
The rope diameter is important, and you can also get some tape to wrap around the rope ends after it is cut.....prevents fraying.
The threads on some stoves are Whitworth - maybe yours is similar.
John
Yeah I should have bought the items such as glue individually to get them cheaper, but you live and learn :)

What type of tape do I need? Have you got a link?

I have checked and Whitworth stoves done't look like my Dunsley Highlander 5 Slimline.
 

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