Fuse size

[alba2]

Just a quick question.

With fused spurs and integrated washing machine, dishwasher, fridge freezer etc that have 13 amp plugs, should I lower the rating of the fuses in the fused spur to say 5 amps in order for it to fail first rather than the 13 amp plug, where you may have difficulty accessing the plugs.

Would this lead to frequent fuse failure at the spur?

Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

should I lower the rating of the fuses in the fused spur to say 5 amps in order for it to fail first rather than the 13 amp plug, where you may have difficulty accessing the plugs.

If you do then it will certainly fail first.

Would this lead to frequent fuse failure at the spur?

Only every time you use the appliance, so if you use it frequently then the fuse will fail frequently.

 

[Spark123]

Yep, washing machines and dishwashers have heating elements in them and will pull in excess of 5A so a 5A fuse is not suitable for protecting them. Are the appliances to be fixed in position? If they are free standing then you can always pull them out to get to the fuse - if the fuse does pop then there is usually something wrong anyway so you'll need to pull it out anyway.

 

[alba2]

The appliances are integrated, with a laminate floor right up to the feet, this makes it very difficult to pull out a washing machine for example.
I noticed that the fused spur for the central heating boiler only had a 5 amp fuse so I considered if this could be used for other kitchen equipment. Obviously a stupid question with higher powered equipment.
Would a 5 amp fuse be a good idea for the fridge freezer, as it is screwed in to adjacent units and the worktop?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You could consider, having the socket outlets for the appliances, in the cupboard /unit next to the said appliances. so if the fuse blows you have easy/quick access to the plug top. This will mean drilling a hole in the back/sides of the units to fit the plug through.
You need to check the rating of fuse in the plug top of the fridge freezer, you'll find it could well be amps, and having that protected by a 5 amp FCU, would not be that effective as either one could go first.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Would a 5 amp fuse be a good idea for the fridge freezer, as it is screwed in to adjacent units and the worktop?

Depends on what the instructions for the F/F say, but probably not as the compressors have quite a surge when starting.

If you want don't want accessible fuses then don't have BS 1363 plugs on the appliances - replace them with BS 546, or just have flex outlets.

But as Spark123 said, if the fuse pops it means there's something wrong so you'll have to pull the appliance out anyway - they don't go for no reason.

 

[alba2]

Thanks for all replies.

 

[Steve]

Just to confuse you, your fridge freezer compressor probably actually pulls about 20-30 amps for a second when it starts

 

[kris251985]

hi, im new to all this. I had a 3amp fuse in my small freezer,the freezer acted more like a fridge....i bought a new freezer, put the 3 amp fuse in the new freezer without thinking (as had to cut off moulded plug to get through worktop) and the same thing happened. Put the correct 13amp fuse in and it started working properly. Would the wrong fuse case this problem or am i imagining it?

 

[mfarrow]

Just to confuse you, your fridge freezer compressor probably actually pulls about 20-30 amps for a second when it starts

I think you mean 'cycle'!

 

[Taylortwocities]

Would the wrong fuse cause this problem or am i imagining it?

You put in the wrong fuse.



Look, if you cut the plug off, take the fuse out of the plug and put it into the FCU/plug or other item that is protecting the device. Or read the instructions. It will tell you the maker's requirements for the protective device.

If you put a fuse in that is too low it will probably blow.
If you put a fuse in that is too high you have a cance of a fire if a fault develops.

Fuse ratings aren't guesswork. Just because the burglar alarm has a 5amp fuse has no relavence to the required fuse size for the toaster.

Good grief.

 

[JohnW2]

Would the wrong fuse cause this problem or am i imagining it?

You put in the wrong fuse.

Indeed, but I think the correct answer to the OP's question here would probably would be 'no'. The 'problem' to which he was referring was not the appliance not working (because he used too small a fuse, which therefore blew) but, rather that (with two different freezers), the freezer "acted more like a fridge" (which I take to mean that it did work, but not 'properly') - but then 'worked properly' when the correct fuse was substituted.

I somehow doubt that you can think of a way that an undersized fuse can cause an appliance to 'not work properly' (although working in some fashion)

Kind Regards, John

 

[sparkwright]

If you've got integrated appliances, I'm surprised there's room for a plug and socket behind the appliance anyway.

Usually with integrated appliances, the best way is fit the socket in an adjacent cupboard, if there is one, and drill a 65 mm or so hole with a holesaw in the back of the cupboard, and pull the flex and plug through here.

If you have switched fused spurs above, you may be able to fit a flex outlet (outlet at the bottom, not front) behind the appliance. This way no fuse behind the appliance, only in the switched fused spur.

Fuses virtually never blow on these sort of appliances anyway, and if one did blow, chances are you'd have to drag the appliance out anyway to fix it.

Would have expected your boiler would have stipulated a 3 amp fuse...

 

[winston1]

If you have fused plugs on the appliances you should not have FCU as well but an isolation switch. Two fuses in series is not necessary.

 

[ricicle]

If a fuse goes on the appliance it will almost always need to be pulled out anyway so it's irrelevant where the fuse is in reality.