If i dot dab plasterboard in my bathroom ready for tiling over (full top toe tiling-no skirting), does the plasterboard sit flat on my new ply floor or is it best to raise it slightly so it dosent touch the floor. Floor will also be tiled. Also same question for behind bath area where i intend to use 'hardibacker' but no tiling;here a slight gap would occur (leading to downstairs kitchen) if the board did not sit on the ply floor. Thanks
Gap between plasterboard and floor?
- Thread starter mazears
- Start date
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leave a gap, if any water penetrates the corner between the floor and wall then it is less likely to impregnate the plasterboard. also helps with getting the board tight as poss to the ceiling.
Yep leave a gap to prevent moisture getting to the board, 40-50mm.
You can pack the bottom of the board with cut offs and remove when D'n'D is set.
You can pack the bottom of the board with cut offs and remove when D'n'D is set.
always a gap for plasterboard as water getting into the bottom of the board will suck right up into it and keep on going.
hardibacker should be fine on the floor i think.
hardibacker should be fine on the floor i think.
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Leave a gap as stated but use Moisture Resistant PB not standard Wall board. What’s the floor, overboard of completely new? Have you used WBP sealed on the back & edges? How’s it fixed?
Hardibacker OK to floor but if your not tiling, what are you finishing it with ?
Hi Richard.Yeah the floor is completely new 25mm WBP. I've taken out the T&G.
Not screwed down as yet as need to shave bit more off the edges-think i've cut it bit tight against wall edge(only 2mm gaps in places). Will eventually sbr back and edges.
Walls are all bare brick at mo so have plenty of time to think about what is best to do here in bathroom. Hardibacker was idea for behind the bath area as i wasn't going to tile here (not too sure how to finish here). maybe hardibacker in shower area - although i'd have to dot dab then thru frame fixings as you've mentioned before! ..So basically i've 4 bare brick walls reasonable condition all pva'd with intentions of fitting toilet/sink/bath/seperate rectangular corner shower enclosure(2 glass sides + tray).
Floor will be 12x12 10mm ceramic tiles;walls 10x8 8mm ceramic tiles top to toe. One window which i was also thinking of tiling reveals and cill..All copper plumbing will most likely be hidden by full pedestal/bath etc and only shower plumbing will need to be behind either stud or dot dab wall..
.So which method would you go with-full MR plasterboard (d&d/stud)+ partial tanking(shower/bath/cill) or combination of MR plasterboard + hardibacker?
Maybe even solid render or plaster? If i leave a gap between floor and plasterboard can this gap still be overtiled and will it be possible if need be to hide h&c water pipe here,rather than cutting thru joists?
Not screwed down as yet as need to shave bit more off the edges-think i've cut it bit tight against wall edge(only 2mm gaps in places). Will eventually sbr back and edges.
Walls are all bare brick at mo so have plenty of time to think about what is best to do here in bathroom. Hardibacker was idea for behind the bath area as i wasn't going to tile here (not too sure how to finish here). maybe hardibacker in shower area - although i'd have to dot dab then thru frame fixings as you've mentioned before! ..So basically i've 4 bare brick walls reasonable condition all pva'd with intentions of fitting toilet/sink/bath/seperate rectangular corner shower enclosure(2 glass sides + tray).
Floor will be 12x12 10mm ceramic tiles;walls 10x8 8mm ceramic tiles top to toe. One window which i was also thinking of tiling reveals and cill..All copper plumbing will most likely be hidden by full pedestal/bath etc and only shower plumbing will need to be behind either stud or dot dab wall..
.So which method would you go with-full MR plasterboard (d&d/stud)+ partial tanking(shower/bath/cill) or combination of MR plasterboard + hardibacker?
Maybe even solid render or plaster? If i leave a gap between floor and plasterboard can this gap still be overtiled and will it be possible if need be to hide h&c water pipe here,rather than cutting thru joists?
I think I misunderstood you
, so the unfinished Hardibacker is under/below the bath? will be OK.I always prefer to use a waterproof tile backer board in shower enclosure or behind the bath; MR PB everywhere else but as long as you tank PB in wet areas, it's usually OK.
Yes you can over tile the gap. Do not notch the joists for plumbing, where it’s unavoidable I always drill holes in centre of the joists, even though it means a couple more soldered connections to get the pipe in; I never use push fit, compression or (god forbid) plastic under the floor. There are also BR’s governing where you can cut joists so plan you runs carefully.
That can also be a problem with stuck on dual pattern skirting which means there is no support along the bottom edge; I’ve also seen it knocked off the wall by over zealous use of a knee stretcher when laying fitted carpet.
Yeah hardibacker down back of bath not visible - just leave as is then here? What about cill which is right on the bath? Would prefer hardibacker/aquapanel in shower area, just whether i'm capable of levelling up with mr pb. Is it still necesarry to tank even with water resistant backer board or can i get away with it? ....I tried my 1st attempt at dot dab yesterday in another room..Am i over doing it with the amount of adhesive dabs? Stuck good and proper after sbr'ing the brickwork -hell of a messy job though!. One board edge ended up bowing in when butted up to another edge so not perfectly straight. Is a learning curve getting ready for bathroom!!
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These were done in a bedroom with 4in gap from floor. Was gonna stick on skirting board, but yeah can understand how carpet fitters can easily knock it loose.
Maybe i should also put skirting in bathroom it it makes things easier/better?
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These were done in a bedroom with 4in gap from floor. Was gonna stick on skirting board, but yeah can understand how carpet fitters can easily knock it loose.
Maybe i should also put skirting in bathroom it it makes things easier/better?
Yes.
Not sure what you mean, do you have a pic. ?
No need to tank the backer board but I would tank PB. Are you fully tiling the rest of the room or will some be plastered? If you’ve a recessed mixer valve you will in all probability need a false stud wall as most need 90mm or more recess which virtually puts you into the cavity or through an internal block wall.
That’s a rather higgledy piggledy set of uneven dabs & probably why the board edge bowed. For round dabs I use an old wooden kitchen spoon & space across & down the board every 200mm with intermediate dabs around the edge of the boards so you get a more or less continuous adhesive bed giving the board more support around the edge. Some prefer adhesive strips; not necessarily better IMO but is the recognised method; http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/sb_drilyner_200701.pdf
I wouldn’t
Just refering to internal window cill which is right next to bath whether or not it's advisable to use water resistant backer board here,and up the reveals to top of window? I was intending tiling all the bathroom walls yes. I may have to build stud wall where shower mixer will be (wall only 1200mm wide + the door) Wasn't thinking of bringing it out 90mm though but you may be right. This is the shower
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...refview=search&ts=1267368387250&isSearch=true
PS. Two of my bathroom partition walls are combination of brick built on its side and 2x3 timber (all old way of doing it). If i d&d will it crack at these points (wood/brick) or nothing to worry about. Same when you get the odd embedded piece of wood that the original wooden window reveals or skirting were nailed to...Is it best to scrim these 1st?
Will give dot dab ago with wooden spoon and try get it a bit more consistent. I threw it on just with a normal round nosed trowel. I presume it is correct to throw onto back of PB and not onto the wall? I say this as it started getting v.heavy and bending with weight of adhesive (but like i say think i over did it with amount of dabs -ain't coming off in a hurry for sure!).
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...refview=search&ts=1267368387250&isSearch=true
PS. Two of my bathroom partition walls are combination of brick built on its side and 2x3 timber (all old way of doing it). If i d&d will it crack at these points (wood/brick) or nothing to worry about. Same when you get the odd embedded piece of wood that the original wooden window reveals or skirting were nailed to...Is it best to scrim these 1st?
Will give dot dab ago with wooden spoon and try get it a bit more consistent. I threw it on just with a normal round nosed trowel. I presume it is correct to throw onto back of PB and not onto the wall? I say this as it started getting v.heavy and bending with weight of adhesive (but like i say think i over did it with amount of dabs -ain't coming off in a hurry for sure!).
dabs on wall, mark the wall where the board will be going to get edges bed plasterboard into the dabs to true up.
You don’t need to use backer board on the cill or window reveal.
I was intending tiling all the bathroom walls yes. I may have to build stud wall where shower mixer will be (wall only 1200mm wide + the door) Wasn't thinking of bringing it out 90mm though but you may be right. This is the shower
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...search&ts=1267368387250&isSearch=true[/QUOTE]
That’s not a recessed mixer, you should be OK but will still need to chase for the pipes.
If I’ve understood correctly, position a board 50/50 over the brick/stud then board out either side.
Don’t really understand what you mean.
Put dabs on the wall, as stated.
I'm going to dot dab combination of mr pb and hardibacker in bathroom area. Bathroom height is about 2.6m. Plasterboard is 2.4m which would leave a 200mm gap at bottom (which is also same height as wall tile i will be using) As you've said plasterboard should not touch the floor -
1. Do i fill the gap with adhesive and tile OR make this bottom gap smaller by adding another strip of plasterboard (maybe 100mm) making sure not to go flush down on the floor. This giving some support to bottom row of tiles?
2. Does the hardibacker/aquapanel go down to the floor THEN the shower tray (45mm deep) butted up against before tiling?
3. Is it do'able to dot dab hardibacker + thru frame fixings whilst still have enough gap for 15mm copper piping to be hidden behind?
Also outside i have a new upvc window with 2 concrete lintels above(inner/outer) with damp course spanning above the inner lintel ,down across cavity and under outer lintel. Where the damp course is ie.loose under the outer lintel -
4. How do i render up onto it without the dpc falling off the underside of the outer concrete lintel, and without the fresh render from falling off the surface of the dpc.
Apologies if Q4. sounds confusing , i may have to show a pic
1. Do i fill the gap with adhesive and tile OR make this bottom gap smaller by adding another strip of plasterboard (maybe 100mm) making sure not to go flush down on the floor. This giving some support to bottom row of tiles?
2. Does the hardibacker/aquapanel go down to the floor THEN the shower tray (45mm deep) butted up against before tiling?
3. Is it do'able to dot dab hardibacker + thru frame fixings whilst still have enough gap for 15mm copper piping to be hidden behind?
Also outside i have a new upvc window with 2 concrete lintels above(inner/outer) with damp course spanning above the inner lintel ,down across cavity and under outer lintel. Where the damp course is ie.loose under the outer lintel -
4. How do i render up onto it without the dpc falling off the underside of the outer concrete lintel, and without the fresh render from falling off the surface of the dpc.
Apologies if Q4. sounds confusing , i may have to show a pic
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