Gaps on skirting joints, pls help

Joined
30 Oct 2007
Messages
536
Reaction score
0
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi guys, I fit some skirting yesterday and it was more of a pain in the backside than i expected. Basically where my wall met the floor, the angle was not 90 degrees hence none of the skirting actually sat 100% correctly although it looked fine to the naked eye. The problem I had was for example when mitering for 90 degree angles, the two mitered pieces would be off by a few mm, with the worst one being off by like 3mm.

Similarly on a very long wall i have it where although two pieces join together, they are not actually very snug, still around 1-0.5mm apart.

Is this something everyone would experience in a situation as mine and would they use wood filler to solve the problem?

In my case i have mdf skirting and furthermore, is wood filler (particularly ronseal) durable enough. I dont want it to crumble off later on
 
Sponsored Links
My advice is to start again

And learn the following;

1/ Read a tap measure to get snug fitting joints.

2/ How to scribe and cut a internal mitre

Or

Blame the builder for constructing walls that are not a 90deg and rooms that have walls that are to long for standard lengths of MDF skirting

There is a very good guide on another forum regarding the fitting of skirting.
 
o my method of installing the skirting is ok as downstairs i have effortlessly fixed the skirting with no issues. Upstairs however the floor is rather bumpy and uneven likewise the skirting does not always join well.

Other than this, time really is not on my side so cannot start again.

I mean its not too bad at first glance, its only once you start looking closely you realise a little gap the largest being 2-3mm on an external corner other than that the others are around 1mm or less off.

Do you guys caulk/filler joints generally anyway to further neaten them. If not do you think i could do this in order to fill and neaten off the joints. I am pretty good with rubbing filler down generally but am wondering if ronseal wood filler is easy enough to rub down.

Basically from what i have assessed the most conivenient option of solving the problem is filling, but my question is, would this be a safe option. Also how durable is wood filler generally
 
Hi i would use a 2 pac filler,i use it all the time.I think it would be your best and quickest way round your problem,when sanded and painted properly you shouldnt be able to tell there was ever any gaps there.Baz
 
Sponsored Links
Baz, how does this filler work matey, is it easy enough to rub down, is it durable and finally what product would you recommend
 
Baz, how does this filler work matey, is it easy enough to rub down, is it durable and finally what product would you recommend
hi it is a 2 part filler it comes with a hardener that you just add to the amount of filler you need.It rubs up easy enough.There all about the same so carnt really recomend a brand.But do not mix to much hardener with it if you havent havent used this it before because you dont get long with this stuff,it goes of quick.Baz
 
Thanks for the info matey, I was assuming this was similar to the car filler stuff but just thought id make sure.

Regaridng brand, I have no clue where to start. If it makes it easier, what do you use :D and where can i get it from (does screwfix have it)
 
As you like Ronseal you are lucky they do one as do cuprinol, they are all the same.
 
Metallux 2 part filler is ace kit. Quite expensive but well worth it. Despite its name, it is for wood.

Its all we use in my pro. cabinet-making workshop.

You should definitely heed the advice not to mix up too much at a time as you don't get that long to use it, and NEVER put too much hardener into the mix ( I've had it going off whilst still mixing!). It will eventually go off without any hardener if you really need that long.
 
Hey thanks for the reply, ive checked and it seems like its half the price of ronseal and unibond. Its only £5 a tub
 
Get some decorators caulk and fill the joints with that using a spatular, then when it has set paint over. PS. dont buy the cheap caulk as it shrinks.
 
pompeyal with caulk yes it would fill the gaps but wont be "shapable" once dry. What i need is something, once dry can be rubbed down in to shape so once cannot see where the two pieces of skirting meets.
 
You should definitely heed the advice not to mix up too much at a time as you don't get that long to use it, and NEVER put too much hardener into the mix ( I've had it going off whilst still mixing!). It will eventually go off without any hardener if you really need that long.

Good point that, the proper term for the hardner is accelerator.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top