Garage wiring plan

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Right, I've planned a project through, and I thought it would be wise to verify it with people more in the know than I believe I am.

The project is to install a bunch of new wiring and fittings in the garage. The proposed curcuit will contain the following:

A) The output of current consumer unit will be routed through 10mm (rated 53A) T+E from a 40A MCB.
B) An IP55 rated garage consumer unit, containing a 63A, 30mA RCD to disable the whole CU. and a 6A and 20A MCB.
C) 3x two way metal clad, 13A sockets
D) 3x fused, metal clad 13A spur boxes (for perminently wiring machinery into)
E) 4 way metal clad light switch
F) 4x 58W floresent lights



My questions are as follows:
Note 1) Is the specs for the consumer unit acceptable along with the T&E to main consumer unit?
Note 2) All the sockets and spur boxes for this run will be wired in parallel internally,is this sort of center tapped spur acceptable? Enclose in metal clad box?
Note 3) 4mm T+E, Rated 32A, fitted to 20A MCB sufficient for application?
Note 4) 1mm T+E, Rated 14A, fitted to 06A MCB sufficient for application?
Note 5) Neutral and earth lines all internally connected, Live switched, acceptable?

All wiring will be housed in 20mm plastic conduit with grommits fitted where necercery to keep wires away from bare metal.

All metal clad enclosures earthed.

If anyone has any other comments on this, I would welcome them.

I'm aware I have drawn this in the old wiring colours, I am doing so as I hope to aquire some old cable... I assume anyone who can comment on this post will know why. But dont make a big deal about it :)

Cheers,
Sam.
 
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As a thought, if all 4 lights were switched on at once, would the surge be enough to blow a 6A breaker?
 
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Hi again, I hate being pushy, and I'm not an impatient person. But I need to get some things ordered asap, and what I order depends on whether everything in the first post is ok. So if anyone can cast a critical eye over it and say whether its good or not, it would be greatly appreciated.

Sam.
 
assuming cable run lengths are not excessive, cables are kept away from insulation and the cable stays indoors what you propose looks fine.
 
assuming cable run lengths are not excessive, cables are kept away from insulation and the cable stays indoors what you propose looks fine.

Kept away from insulation??

Could someone explain that for me?!

Thanks
 
assuming cable run lengths are not excessive, cables are kept away from insulation and the cable stays indoors what you propose looks fine.
Kept away from insulation??
Could someone explain that for me?!
Thanks

Insulating material has a significant impact on the ability of electrical cable to conduct away heat.
It reduces the safe current carrying capacity of the cable by up to 50%.
 
one further comment, if you are wiring in plastic conduit it will make your life much easier if you use conduit singles rather than T&E
 
No insulation at all in the garage (much to my annoyances, its hard to work in an ice box), so thats not a problem.

Max cable length would be no greater than 10 meters.

Conduit singles? there new to me.

Sam.
 
I've been doing the socket/light fittings/switches... etc since I was probably about 7, First time I've ever had need to run cable through conduit. so while I know of the old colours, as I said, conduit singles are new to me... I'm guessing there single core flex as opposed to multi-core T&E.

Sam.
 
Singles are typically made with largeish strands so they are more flexible than T&E (which is soild core at the common sizes) but less flexible than flex. The fact they are single core rather than a sheathed cable also helps make them easier to get through the conduit.
 

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