Getting fed up :( old Victorian door glazing replacement

[IanM18]

Hi all.

This home renovation lark is getting very depressing. I either have too high standards, or I’m expecting way too much.

Ok, old Victorian door, months of stripping lead paint, and painting.

Finally today had it reglazed

Installer has used beading, not putty as it’s safer allegedly, to stop the window falling out if the door slams.

I can see the beading from the other side of the rebate, not to mention the nails holding the beading in are all wonky and raised above the beading.

I won’t mention the damage to the door and surrounding frame as they were hammering out the glass. I think it was more difficult than they expected.

Anyway, stuff like that can be fixed, it’s not the end of the world…

Putty? Unsafe? Beading much safer?

Are there any other options that I can consider for single glazing?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Wouldn't you do the stripping etc without the glazing insitu?

 

[IanM18]

It had old glass in it while stripping.

I’m more asking about the putty Vs beading, which is safest?

Glass is in door and in panels above door.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I haven't puttied a window in ages but i remember putting a few pins to hold the panes in before finishing with the putty. Sounds like your installer doesn't like the smell of linseed

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Likewise. Traditional glazing was held in place with triangular steel glazing sprigs then puttied. The main disadvantage of putty is that it takes a while to cure (5 or more days) and is therefore a security risk whilst it cures, at least in ground floor doors and windows, because it is so soft. Breaking in whilst the putty around a relatively newly glazed window was still soft was once a common modus operandii of house burglars

Beading is a lot more secure, but you need to set up the nail gun to sink the (18 gauge) pin heads completely as you shouldn't risk sinking the pin beneath the surface with a hammer and nail set afterwards, as you might do elsewhere, for fear of breaking the glass. I think all you can do now is to flush cut the heads of any protruding pin heads

 

[diy_fun_uk]

pics would have been good to see exactly what it looks like.

 

[DIYWell]

So long as the fitter put sealant between the frame, glass and beading, it will be ok. If they didn't, expect rain to be driven through as some point.

Use a nail punch and hammer the raised heads in. Just be more patient than your ham fisted fitter.

 

[DiyNutJob]

I’m more asking about the putty Vs beading, which is safest?

Beading is safest for the installer. If the putty failed and the glass stabs someone, you could take them to the cleaners.

 

[IanM18]

Thanks everyone, feels like it should be safe to putty/glazing clips instead of beading.

I’ll not post photos of the work, I’m not into naming and shaming, but it’s not great.

I know I’m not allowed to withhold payment, but assuming it’s safe to work out the cost of repairs to all the damage done to the door, surround, locks and refinishing the door again and ask that’s removed from the final invoice? Or do I pay the full amount, and then ask him to pay for all the remediation work?

 

[DIYWell]

If you don't think the work is finished (dents, nails protruding etc), or done to a reasonable standard (sealant missing) don't pay.

If you're broadly happy with the job but think there's remedial work to be done, pay half the bill and explain what you'd like done to complete payment. Or hold back what you think is reasonable for their time to fix it eg £100. Doesn't guarantee they'll fix it, but you are showing willingness and being reasonable.

If you pay in full, they have no motivation to return to an unhappy customer.

 

[IanM18]

I’m in the position of I’m thing the jobs a write off, and needs re doing, but I’m not confident in this chap.

The other damage, to other areas - I don’t want them trying to bodge fix it.

I was planning costing up repairs, and suggesting that gets deducted from their invoice.

I’ll have to pay again to get the work done again, and get the other stuff fixed, but I’ll feel better getting someone else

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I’m in the position of I’m thing the jobs a write off, and needs re doing, but I’m not confident in this chap.

The other damage, to other areas - I don’t want them trying to bodge fix it.

I was planning costing up repairs, and suggesting that gets deducted from their invoice.

I’ll have to pay again to get the work done again, and get the other stuff fixed, but I’ll feel better getting someone else

A pic would be really handy to illustrate your point. And glazing doors (with putty) is not difficult - very DIYable.

 

[IanM18]

I’ll might do in a few days

Basically, while removing the old glass from my front door, they managed to split the centre panel that sits in the middle of the door, and when I say split, it’s a large horizontal split / chunk pushed forward in the wood about 10cm long, that they said popped out / cracked when they stuck a blade in to lever the glass out, they managed to bend the BS nightlatch back a few CM, while hammering out the glass, and put a few dents around the frame.

It’s a solid wood Edwardian era door

 

[Deleted member 174758]

...and when I say split, it’s a large horizontal split / pushed forward in the wood about 10cm long, that they said popped out / cracked when they stuck a blade in to lever the glass out...

First off damage like that is often repairable using glue and clamps with timber battens (mitre bond can be particularly effective, but takes preparation care and speed). If thought necessary, rebates can be further strengthened by glueing a small strip of linen across the split after repairing it

...and put a few dents around the frame.

It’s a solid wood Edwardian era door

Dents can often be steamed out with a damp tea towel and a medium to hot iron. This will swell the crushed fibres which must then be left 24 to 48 hours before a second try is made (if necessary), or the area is sanded/refinished. I've done just such a "fix" on a massive solid oak door which was dropped on its' corner. I didn't get all of the bruises out, but it is almost indiscernable after staining and polishing, and so will pass muster

The biggest problem may be getting any repairs to the finishes to blend in

 

[mrrusty]

as you shouldn't risk sinking the pin beneath the surface with a hammer and nail set afterwards

When tapping pins in to window beading, I often/usually hold the end of a panel saw against the glass, so if I do miss-hit I hit the flat of the saw not the glass. Final tiny tap with a set afterwards if it needs it.