Gloss on top of Bullseye 1 2 3 .... drying time ??

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Hi
I just primed up some window frames with Bullseye 1 2 3, can I gloss them tomorrow after 24 hrs ?

For the Bullseye it says toubh dry 30 mins, recoatable 1 hr, fully cured 7 days.

But that doesn't answer my question !!!

Does fully cured mean it is still expelling water ?

Last thing I need is water bleeding out of the primer with gloss on top.

Thanks for any ideas ?
 
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Bulls eye takes 7 days to cure but is dry enough for over coating in an hour or so. As zinsser 123 is a primer for difficult surfaces it only gets full adhesion to the surface after curing.
If you for example applied zinsser to a plastic pipe then over coated, the paint could be scratched off with a fingernail right back to the plastic but after curing the finish will be much tougher as it is "bonded" firmly to the base surface.
Hope that explains it. (y)
 
Thanks, been doing some research. Seems that the water is not fully out of the paint until it is fully cured and so should not be overcoated with solvent-based paint until that time (although in the right conditions it can be quicker, maybe 2 or 3 days in the summer at a guess).

I have not been following the politics etc... of water-based solvent-based paints but ... seems water-based over water-based is best, and solvent-based over solvent-based. Presumably the water-based paints can cure as one unit to some extent, and the solvent-based likewise .... but paints are a bit more complicated these days. In any case oil and water don't mix.

Last year after glossing some window sills, tiny bubbles appeared in some areas of gloss .... which I now attribute to the water-based primer.
 
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As footprint said- using waterbased paints over non-porous surfaces such as plastic down pipes will require you to respect the curing time. Waterbased paints cure through coalescence. As the water evaporates the molecules bond together and shrink down.

I frequently use waterbased primer/undercoat with oil based eggshell applied a handful of hours later.

The bigger problem is applying waterbased finish coats over oil based primers and undercoats. Oil based paints take much longer to cure. If you don't wait long enough you risk "fish eyes"- the solvent in the OB paint will force the WB paint away, leaving you with tiny craters in the finish coat
 

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