Glowworm 30 hxi F3 fault

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Hi,

I have a glow worm 30 hxi boiler. .The gasket on the heat exchanger door has obviously deteriorated over a period of time, unfortunately buckling the heat exchanger door. I have aquired a new door and gasket etc and fitted without any problems. The boiler is failing to start however giving an F3 fault. The fan is not starting and the the gas valve does not appear to activater, any ideas????

Ian
 
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There does not seem to be an F3 fault, but an F13, which is main PCB.

Have you disturbed the conections :?:
 
This kind of problem is what you can land yourself in if you do gas related repairs when you should have called a competent CORGI !

Tony
 
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As Tony (Agile) has said, for the gasket to fail so badly that the combustion chamber "door" has warped then there must be another fault somewhere for that to happen.

At the very basic level is that the seal was faulty and that every time you had the boiler inspected the visual signs never showed up or when they "serviced" it they didn't install new gaskets which has caused the damage.

I have never known one to warp the "door" unless the seals have been faulty.

Sorry to say but i think that the fault lies with the service you have received in the first place instead of the boiler. As has been mentioned before i don't recognise the F3 fault but will check that in the morning, F13 is a faulty main PCB though.
 
This kind of problem is what you can land yourself in if you do gas related repairs when you should have called a competent CORGI !

Tony

Sorry I don't want to cause a row but I have been repeatedly screwed by corgi approved plumbers who have over-charged me for PCBs, pumps, services, ignitors etc, including the one who fitted the last heat exchanger door seal during a service!! I was hoping an 'expert' could advise me of an F3 fault. perhaps giving me info on voltage checks etc, I could take at the gas valve, fan etc during start up.
I'm a qualified avionics technician and don't exacty see a central heating boiler as rocket science.



Ian
 
There does not seem to be an F3 fault, but an F13, which is main PCB.

Have you disturbed the conections :?:

Definatelty F3... last time I had this fault it was the Fan bearing which was faulty, a bit of lubrication cured it. The fan seems to be free at the moment. The boiler has an upgraded PCB, any ideas are welcome.

Ian
 
As Tony (Agile) has said, for the gasket to fail so badly that the combustion chamber "door" has warped then there must be another fault somewhere for that to happen.

At the very basic level is that the seal was faulty and that every time you had the boiler inspected the visual signs never showed up or when they "serviced" it they didn't install new gaskets which has caused the damage.

I have never known one to warp the "door" unless the seals have been faulty.

Sorry to say but i think that the fault lies with the service you have received in the first place instead of the boiler. As has been mentioned before i don't recognise the F3 fault but will check that in the morning, F13 is a faulty main PCB though.

Thanks for your comments. I contacted Glow Worm, they tell me the original seals/gaskets were useless and they now produce an upgraded version. They say it is possible for deterioration of the gasket to cause warping of the door, hence they sell heat exchanger door kits!!. I want to move on from this and get the heating going. what does F3 mean (not F13) is there a sequence I can test at start up e.g. no fan rotation, gas valve doesn't seem to activate, no spark, but there is a cycle of activity going on. then eventually F3.????
 
MI, Manufacturers Instuctions.

At the fan look for 24v across red and blue.

Gas valve will be 24v, but dont expect it there if not at the fan.

Check central heating thermister, around 10k ohms about 20'c (ish).

BTW do you have the manual.
 
MI, Manufacturers Instuctions.

At the fan look for 24v across red and blue.

Gas valve will be 24v, but dont expect it there if not at the fan.

Check central heating thermister, around 10k ohms about 20'c (ish).

BTW do you have the manual.



thanks Clf, no, I only have the original installation and servicing booklet circa 2003 plus a circuit diagram of when the new PCB was fitted, sounds like it could be a faulty fan then?? I'll check voltages in the morning.
 
Sorry I don't want to cause a row but I have been repeatedly screwed by corgi approved plumbers who have over-charged me for PCBs, pumps, services, ignitors etc, including the one who fitted the last heat exchanger door seal during a service!!

So i was right!

I've checked the fault codes for gloworm and they are next to useless as always!

There is no such code as F3 according to their literature

I can only agree with others at the moment. A quick way to test it would be to disconnect one lead from the fan. You should get the same fault code with the casing in place. Although, avionics or not, you should not be touchingthat!!

If you know that that engineer destroyed the seals then surely you should be asking him/her to rectify the faulot he created?

My guess is that you aren't being 100% honest !!!
 
Sorry I don't want to cause a row but I have been repeatedly screwed by corgi approved plumbers who have over-charged me for PCBs, pumps, services, ignitors etc, including the one who fitted the last heat exchanger door seal during a service!!

So i was right!

I've checked the fault codes for gloworm and they are next to useless as always!

There is no such code as F3 according to their literature

I can only agree with others at the moment. A quick way to test it would be to disconnect one lead from the fan. You should get the same fault code with the casing in place. Although, avionics or not, you should not be touchingthat!!

If you know that that engineer destroyed the seals then surely you should be asking him/her to rectify the faulot he created?

My guess is that you aren't being 100% honest !!!



Sorry jon jb that you have to question my integrity. However, thanks for your ideas. The Corgi approved engineer who serviced the boiler over the past 2 years fitted two new PCBs, charged me £190 for each PCB plus labour and call out etc. This included the PCB he destroyed with water while his apprentice was changing the CH pump which was perfectly serviceable etc etc. I would have thought that a forum like this could provide good information to help people without questioning their ability I only mentioned my background to clarify that I have a degree of skill to help me resolve this problem. It would be pointless going on a forum if the only answer was contact a Corgi Aproved plumber etc. give me a bit of credit!!
 
Sorry I don't want to cause a row but I have been repeatedly screwed by corgi approved plumbers who have over-charged me for PCBs, pumps, services, ignitors etc, including the one who fitted the last heat exchanger door seal during a service!!

So i was right!

I've checked the fault codes for gloworm and they are next to useless as always!

There is no such code as F3 according to their literature

I can only agree with others at the moment. A quick way to test it would be to disconnect one lead from the fan. You should get the same fault code with the casing in place. Although, avionics or not, you should not be touchingthat!!

If you know that that engineer destroyed the seals then surely you should be asking him/her to rectify the faulot he created?

My guess is that you aren't being 100% honest !!!



Sorry jon jb that you have to question my integrity. However, thanks for your ideas. The Corgi approved engineer who serviced the boiler over the past 2 years fitted two new PCBs, charged me £190 for each PCB plus labour and call out etc. This included the PCB he destroyed with water while his apprentice was changing the CH pump which was perfectly serviceable etc etc. I would have thought that a forum like this could provide good information to help people without questioning their ability I only mentioned my background to clarify that I have a degree of skill to help me resolve this problem. It would be pointless going on a forum if the only answer was contact a Corgi Aproved plumber etc. give me a bit of credit!!
 

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