Glowworm Ultracom 30sxi F9 issue

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I moved into a new house last May (2018) our Glowworm Ultracom 30sxi (F9 issue) has become the bane of my life!

Boiler is 10 years old - the plumber (who originally fitted the boiler) has 1/ cleaned pipes (boiler ok for 3 or 4 weeks then starts progressively F9'ing until it'll barely stay on), 2/ changed the pressure sensor (same cycle, ok for 2 or 3 weeks then goes back to cutting out more and more frequently) and then 3/ changed the PCB (guess what, same cycle).

He's now saying there's nothing else he can do and maybe I need to either get someone else to look at it or get a new boiler......

I'm not very technically minded but I'd have thought there should be some resolution possible - reading online it looks like I'm not alone with F9 problems on this boiler.

Anyone have any views on less drastic solutions than "new boiler"?
 
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I presume he's measured the water pressure?

It can also be down to a comms fualt from the pump at start up.

When was your system last power flushed? Does it have up-to-date inhibitor?
 
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Hi SammyInnit - plumber has flushed the system but not power flushed it - afraid I don't know re inhibitor.

I read on a separate post that the pump might need replacing.

It all seems a bit trial and error though.

It will soon be like Trigger's brush - I'm up to £600 a counting and it's not fixed
 
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It could be one of three things - the pump isn't working as it should, the diverter valve is faulty or the heat exchanger is full of sludge and limiting flow rate.

Unfortunately, hiring a plumber who's readily spent money before determining the cause has now lead you into the territory of new boiler money.
 
Thanks SammyInnit - much appreciated - I thought using the plumber who'd fitted it 10 years ago (long before I bought the house) would make it easier to get sorted but I'll try a different guy who've I've used a lot in the past.

thanks again for your help.

Cheers
Ian
 
I know the horse has bolted but if I were called in. Id be saying to you, do you want to spend money on a ten year old boiler. This money is better spend on a new boiler. Power flushing as Sammy has said a coud be what is needed... This option works well in both worlds... If it clears the blockage and the boiler works again, then all well and good. If the boiler still does not work then at least the system has been powerflushed ready for a new boiler....
 
Yeah, but that's only because he has wasted and been conned out of £600.

I used to get that a lot when managing flats.
Stock answer to any fault - "Needs a new PCB".
Ok £200 for new PCB plus labour for another vist - not cured.

Had four 'engineers' for a fault once like that - New PCB fitted myself after first - not cured so other three wrong as well.
Fifth (or rather first real) engineer cured the problem by adjusting the switch on top of the diverter valve.



My car won't start - "You need a new computor" - new computor fitted - not cured - "you need a new car" - not acceptable.
 
If it's a case of mending this one, first thing I'd do is have someone flush the boiler, remove the exchanger for a full clean, a case of leaving it soak over night.

Then I'd have the flow rate of the pump checked and ensure the diverter valve is working as it should, a case of testing the flow and return tempts and on-demand HW are all working correctly.

Given that you've already had a new PCB and flow sensor, if these don't fix it, have the wiring between the pump and PCB checked and check the boiler internals for any leaks. Close off the flow and return after the boiler and create a loop.

After that if it hasn't been singled out as a pump fault it could be a fault with the gas fan but unlikely and at this point I'd be looking to Vaillant/GW for help.
 
I wouldn't bother flushing it as the heat exchanger is a continuous coil of very narrow tube, and does not take well to flushing.

You take the HE out first and make up the ends. Soak the HE over night.
 
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