Glueing engineered wood floor to riven Slate tiles?

[J-S-Q]

In my ground floor kitchen, I currently have a riven Slate tiled floor, laid onto a concrete screed with wet underfloor heating. It would be extremely difficult to take up the tiles, with high risk of breaking the UFH pipes (I tried removing a tile and they are VERY well adhered!). Therefore, I'm considering glueing engineered wood floor directly on top of the tiles.

My two initial concerns are:
1. The tiles have a reasonably rough surface (see photo). I'd say they have variations of up to 2mm in places. Can I successfully glue the wood floor to this kind of surface? Do I need to use some kind of prime? Or even some kind of damp proofing product?

2. How well will the UFH work once the wood floor is installed? I'm guessing it will be ok but with higher running costs.

Grateful for any advice!

 

[Mr Chibs]

If you took the tiles up, you won't disturb the UFH as the pipes will be embedded into the screed layer (probably around 75mm thick).

Thermally there will be hit adding a wooden floor, have you just a dislike to the tiles?

There may be a decoupling mat under the tiles, I used one when laying mine.


Perhaps you need to look at the 'glue' they use for parquet flooring (Don't know what it's called, sorry.)

 

[J-S-Q]

There's definitely not a decoupling mat (I can see that from partially removing one tile)

I realise the pipes would be in the screed. I was just unsure how deep, and how much abuse the screed would take from an SDS tile chisel before I'd risk damaging the UFH. You think that would be ok? I presume if I did manage to take the tiles up, I'd need some kind of levelling compound to provide a good surface for wood flooring?

The reason we want to change the floor is simply: new kitchen going in, and we want a whole new look to the room.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Perhaps you need to look at the 'glue' they use for parquet flooring (Don't know what it's called, sorry.)

The adhesive to look for is LeCol 5500, but I am unsure how well it will adhere to a substrate which is so uneven and potentially contaminated (lacquered/sealed) as riven slate is likely to be. LeCol 5500 is also stupidly expensive to use as a filler IMHO. Probably better to lift the slate or alternatively use an SLC over the top of it then apply the engineered flooring, assuming that the surface of the slate can be decontaminated.

if lifting the slate, once the first bit of it is up the rest will probably come up relatively easily by using a curved Burke Bar (whilst not common in the UK, Marshalltown do them) or even a good solid forged spade and a decent size (36in) pry bar. The end result will probably be rough, but SLC should handle it

 

[Mr Chibs]

Good answer Job, thanks.

FWIW I reckon there is around 40/50mm of screed above my pipes, you might be able to see the screed thickness at the wall edge or door threshold.

 

[foxhole]

Wood floors in a kitchen can fail quickly .