Grid switch installation tips

[ban-all-sheds]

Having installed the box for a grid into a wall which will be plastered and then have a splashback fitted, I realised I've jumped the gun, cos unlike regular recessed boxes it does matter how deep it ends up (unless you don't mind having to poke your fingers through the front plate holes in order to reach the switches.... )

Not having much luck finding info on the MK website - can anybody help me out with any tips on how far back from the finished surface I'll need to set the box?

And how precise I need to be - i.e. how much fore/aft adjustment there is?

 

[aptsys]

It doesn't matter how far back the pattress is (provided you have long enough screws). There are little tabs on the grid frame which should be in contact with the finished wall or tile surface which should stop the problem you're mentioning occurring.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah - now I see - that makes perfect sense.

Good job I am having something other than just plaster. Those tabs don't stick out very far - I'd be wary of the ability of an unsupported plaster edge to cope.

 

[aptsys]

I nearly had an issue with the tabs and plaster in my hallway only giving a 1 or 2mm of contact. Once the faceplate is in place though, the faceplate gives all of the support as with any other accessory.

 

[Chri5]

Ban

You've just made my day.

Without in any way trying to be nasty, mean or any other negative remark.

You asked a question

One that I can understand you asking, but how rare is that.

When did you last ask a question on the Electrics UK side ?

Just proves that sometimes knowledge is limited without practical application.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

When did you last ask a question on the Electrics UK side ?

I think it was 15th April 2010, 18:39.

Just proves that sometimes knowledge is limited without practical application.

Err.... so?

 

[1john]

Just remember to keep your splashback cut dead tight to the box and you should have no problem, the further back the box is the better as they get very congested and it can be difficult to dress the cables neatly inside and leave room for some spare cable for future.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Oh Chri5. Now look what you've done. I was quite enjoying that thread.

 

[ColJack]

since teh front screws to the grid, it helps to stabilise the switches once on and takes the strain off the tabs a little so no need to worry about those frail PB edges..

 

[Adam_151]

Even if the tabs on the yoke dont catch the wall surface then its no big issue... takes a bit of trail and error the first few times you have to do it, but you can leave the screws in the yoke backed off enough that its not pulled too far into the wall, and then when you fit the cover plate, the yoke is pulled forwards by that

 

[333rocky333]

If the box is far back, I use 4mm nuts or small washers slid over the screws, you can then get the grid to fit flush and secure to the box, without it moving about.

 

[ColJack]

the MK grids have captive screws so they won't slide down the screw anyway..

 

[Lectrician]

Even if the tabs dont hit the plaster too well, the screws are captive and keep the yoke roughly where required (you should use extension studs, not longer M3.5 screws).

Once the front plate goes on, this pulls the yoke towards it and pushes onto the plaster - alls good. Just be a little wary if it is logic plus as the white plastic is not the best TBH.

 

[RF Lighting]

I've cracked loads trying to get away with not taking the plate off and adjusting the yoke screws

 

[Lectrician]

Yup - they really are that crap arn't they