Guttering without fascia?

[Sunshine12]

excuse my ignorance I know absolutely nothing about roofing..

Is it possible to have guttering without fascia boards? If so, how?

Our House is in the process of being built & we need to order roof trusses & tiles etc.

I don't want a fascia board because I'd rather have a stone header or brick soldiers above the Windows. If we have a fascia board that will be directly above the Windows & I don't personally like that look but unfortunately we cant take the house any higher.

What would we need to make this possible?

I've been reading online about overhang/clipping to tiles/gable ladders etc & getting in a muddle!

Thanks in advance

 

[noseall]

 

[noseall]

Cut brick gables and corbelled fascia/eaves are fairly common. The fascia/eaves detail usually includes dog-tooth feature brickwork as shown in the top image in the above post. The bottom image shows rise and fall gutter brackets. Rafter brackets are also available for gutter support.

 

[Sunshine12]

Hi Noseall, thanks for the reply & photos.

I'm sorry I still don't quite grasp it.

We haven't yet ordered our roof trusses yet but know we don't want it where you can see the ends of the rafters sticky out when you look up (if that makes sense).

Re photo 1 - what do the brackets fix to when you have the dog tooth detail?

If I'm correct, it looks like on photo 2 the brick work protrudes out & the bracket sits on the protruding bricks?

Sorry if i sound like a complete idiot but I'm trying to explain to our bricklayer exactly what we want - he keeps saying go with a fascia but I really want some nice brickwork or a slim stone header above the Windows.

Thanks

 

[noseall]

The R & F brackets are built into the brick joint....

 

[^woody^]

You need to tell your bricklayers that you want corbelled eaves. This can be corbels, dentil, dogtooth or just oversailing, but it comes under the generic corbelled eaves tag.

The rise and fall brackets are built into the wall as it's built. But you need to know where they will actually go and the gutter sit.

There are guidelines and nhbc specifications for this feature, so that it does not end up toppling over. You really should have your designer detail this properly - especially if you have a bricklayer who recommends fascia instead of some nice brickwork. Does he know how to build such a feature I wonder?

 

[Sunshine12]

You need to tell your bricklayers that you want corbelled eaves. This can be corbels, dentil, dogtooth or just oversailing, but it comes under the generic corbelled eaves tag.

The rise and fall brackets are built into the wall as it's built. But you need to know where they will actually go and the gutter sit.

There are guidelines and nhbc specifications for this feature, so that it does not end up toppling over. You really should have your designer detail this properly - especially if you have a bricklayer who recommends fascia instead of some nice brickwork. Does he know how to build such a feature I wonder?

Ahh I see now! Thanks for the photo.

Is it possible to fit them retrospectively/after the roof/brickwork has been finished?

Could you please also explain the different types of corbelling that you've mentioned. I can see the dog tooth on the above photo.

One last question (sorry) but is it possible to have just standard/plain brick work at the eaves or does it have to be some sort of cornel detail?

I really like the dog tooth but it may be OTT with stone heads too?

Thanks again

 

[noseall]

The corbelling is there enable the brickwork to step out in order to be in the correct position to deal with the roof eaves tiles. If you were to say go up straight, then you will have problems setting out your first course of tiles - thus having to revert back to a timber fascia etc, unless you settle for an overly tall amount of masonry above the window heads.
I take it you are having a plain tile roof and not a shallower concrete interlocking affair?

As Woody said, a brick eaves detail lends itself to a steeper roof design and needs the efforts of an architect or similar in order for it to work. It's not a detail you decide upon midway through a job or on a whim.

 

[Sunshine12]

I can see how it works now & why it has to step out. I've had a look at some of the period houses on my street & can see they've got corbelling at the eaves.

Thanks very much for explaining.

One of the planning conditions is that we have to use a dual interlocking concrete tile (Gemini or Marley Ashmore). Is this going to be okay with a corbel?

I appreciate I need to discuss this with the architect/bricky & roofer but just want to get my head around it.

Thanks again

 

[Nige F]

[
Is it possible to fit them retrospectively/after the roof/brickwork has been finished?



Thanks again

Drive in spike brackets are available, (but I've not used them )