Halstead ACE HE 30 repair or replace

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My Halstead ACE HE 30 has developed a problem. The hot water is luke warm at best (not hot enough to shower) and when the hot water tap only is on it heats up the radiators while the central heating is off. An internet search pointed me to the diverter valve which looked a cheap repair. On my boiler however, there didn't seem to be a separate diverter valve as such. Our local plumber came out this morning and confirmand a stuck/failed diverter valve. He was also surprised that there didn't appear to be a separate diverter and that the valve is part of the Hydroblock pump assembly and this whole part would need replacing at around £350. He suggested that at this cost and the fact that the boiler is 11 years old he would recommended that a new boiler might be more economical. SO we are looking at a repair bill of around £350+ or around £1700 for a new combi boiler and we just don't know what to do? Can anyone advise what they would do? My fear is shelling out £350 when we could end up having more problems in the future.
 
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you can test the motor by dropping the motor out, it is only one screw, no need to drain anything, then run HW and ch separately and see if the motor moves
 
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Thanks all for your help so far. I've dropped the electric motor turned the hot tap on and the motor works but it just spins around. I'm assuming I should see the plastic arm move in and out of the motor body as I switch between hot water and Central heating? It seems like the thread has been stripped from the plastic arm. So next I've looked at the metal lever which the motor arm will move left and right with controls the diverter valve. There is barely any movement in this which I'm assuming is why the thread has been stripped? I've tried to see if I can free up this lever by moving it with my fingers but I don't want to force it without knowing how much it should move? If this lack of movement is the issue and I cannot free it up I'm assuming I will need a hydroblock assembly after all?
 
It doesnt move very much, with the motor removed fire the boiler and move the paddle by hand and feel the pipes to see if it is working
 
My Halstead ACE HE 30 has developed a problem. The hot water is luke warm at best (not hot enough to shower) and when the hot water tap only is on it heats up the radiators while the central heating is off. An internet search pointed me to the diverter valve which looked a cheap repair. On my boiler however, there didn't seem to be a separate diverter valve as such. Our local plumber came out this morning and confirmand a stuck/failed diverter valve. He was also surprised that there didn't appear to be a separate diverter and that the valve is part of the Hydroblock pump assembly and this whole part would need replacing at around £350. He suggested that at this cost and the fact that the boiler is 11 years old he would recommended that a new boiler might be more economical. SO we are looking at a repair bill of around £350+ or around £1700 for a new combi boiler and we just don't know what to do? Can anyone advise what they would do? My fear is shelling out £350 when we could end up having more problems in the future.
Bin it.
 
Why isn't it a good boiler?
11 years old,sadly many modern boilers are well passed there best,as stupid as it sounds.Cheap fix,fine,but please do not throw £350 at it..for less than £2k,including fitting,you could have far superior boiler,10 year parts and labour warranty
 
I think you probably have to hold the pivot point on the end of the spindle to stop it rotating...then the motor can wind the pivot backwards and forwards.
As I've said though these operate at mains voltages so it's very hazadous.
Halstead went bust many years ago and the spares backup is now handled by Glen Dimplex who are apt to charge extortionate prices. How many spares are still available you'd have to investigate.
So the sensible advice may be to bin it and get a boiler with a more certain future.
 
Thanks again for all the advice. I purchased and fitted a new electric motor. I wiggled and freed up the level in the hydroblock and we had hotwater to shower with. Its a small victory as I know we really need a complete new boiler. At least we can shower over the weekend and plan our next move rather than being reactive!

So with that in mind I need a new combi boiler powerful enough for 2 bathrooms. I've been advised by plumber we would need a minimum of 36kw to run two showers. Which boiler do you guys recommend??
 
How likely are you to be running both showers at the same time ?

Two adults and two kids all leaving the house at a similar time it won't happen every day but its likely to happen.
 
It is not that simple you need to see what your incoming flow rate is like to see if it could handle 2 showers at the same time, there are a few boilers that would
 

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