hand held scabblers

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im going to have a new kitchen fitted but ive i high spot right in the middle of my concrete floor throwing the floor out by quite a bit, i was going to hire a concrete floor scrabbler to level it out, and was wondering if anybody has any experience with the refina or eibenstock hand held concrete scabbler and weather it is up to the job of taking high spots off, i know they are good for surface prep, but are they good enough for such a job i want it for? as im considering bidding on one on e bay anyone used em? cheers
 
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sorry mate, never had the pleasure myself, seen them in the catalogue and they look the part but couldn't say.
 
HI Steve if the high spot is not too high why dont you bring the rest of the floor up to it? The only problem would be door openings, I have used quick-set flooor tile adhesive before to take out high spots.How high is the difference? Couldn't you take the top off with a chisel and hammer-machine?...
 
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HI Steve if the high spot is not too high why dont you bring the rest of the floor up to it? The only problem would be door openings, I have used quick-set flooor tile adhesive before to take out high spots.How high is the difference? Couldn't you take the top off with a chisel and hammer-machine?...
hello roy if i put my straight edge on the bump and press on one end the straight edge lifts off the floor by over an inch in places and its level in other places i know the doors will be a pain to get round if i try to float it out ill take some pics in the mornin and post them to show you how far out the floor is at the moment my old cooker is sitting on what looks like a hill and the work tops follow the floor as they wasent installed level i think its not just a tiny high spot that can be lopped off with a chisel but the high spot is spread over a couple of feet ill show u what i mean if i can get some good pics
 
alright boys this is what ive got as you can see in the pics the floor is well out even looking at the old units in the back i have a raised area in the middle of the floor i was thinking scabble to level but would welcome ideas on how you would level it what do you think now roy after seeing it? "EDIT" the third pic is me pressing on one end to show how much its out and look at the floor line of the units in the first to see how raised it is View media item 31001 View media item 31002 View media item 31004 View media item 31005 View media item 31003
 
straight edge could do with a clean steve :LOL:
:cry: i knew i could count on you jr :LOL: just been over the hire shop he reckons if i scrabble the floor i will have to screed it which will well comprimise the doorways another option is to take the whole lot up but dont really want to do that
 
cnt you scrabble it out mabey lower than the floor level (make a low spot) then depending on how deep it is fill with self leveling latex and feather into exsisting and if you do go too deep just use the latex but with grano chippins then feather out with normal latex. thats what i would do.
and hey steve i calls em likes i sees em :LOL: ;)
 
cnt you scrabble it out mabey lower than the floor level (make a low spot) then depending on how deep it is fill with self leveling latex and feather into exsisting and if you do go too deep just use the latex but with grano chippins then feather out with normal latex. thats what i would do.
and hey steve i calls em likes i sees em :LOL: ;)
thanks for your imput m8 im takin the units out tomorrow and will be ripping the vinyl up to have a look
 
What covering you going to have on the floor Steve? If you put the middle of the straight edge over the highest point with a level on it (pack up the s/edge both ends) what is the difference from highest point (middle) to lowest points (at each end?) Also after you have found your highest point use that as your datum and throw some level dabs around the room and see what your lowest point is.
 
What covering you going to have on the floor Steve? If you put the middle of the straight edge over the highest point with a level on it (pack up the s/edge both ends) what is the difference from highest point (middle) to lowest points (at each end?) Also after you have found your highest point use that as your datum and throw some level dabs around the room and see what your lowest point is.
alright roy with the level in the middle as in pic 2 the diff at the ends are 10 mil at one end and 5 at the other(approx) then when i turn the edge round diagonal pic 1 its about 20mm at one end and about 3mm at the other and at this moment in time im thinking tiles on the floor, i will try the dabs when all the units are out feel free to tell me what you would do roy m8 because im weighing up all advice and possibilities, i havent got much to play with by the doors either but if i take the vinyl off and the old selfleveling compound that adds another 5 or 6 mil or so to play with cheers
 
What I would do (and have done in the past) is find the highest point and use that as your datum. Then run 3 screeds made up of floor tile adhesive and old tiles or slates or any old bits of "quarries," make them about 3 or 4 inches wide. You can get the rapid set adhesive for this, dont use the expensive stuff (Blimey Denmark have just scored :cry: ) but use only powdered stuff. Make sure your screeds are(bloody Hell England have equalised :LOL: ) spot on. Then fill the gaps inbetween with adhesive, tiles, slate, gravel and anything like this to bring it up to screed level. Make sure you "bed " everything into the adhesive (dont make it too runny just firm enough not to leave voids).
Like I said I have used this method on floors that are going to get tiled as I have never used self-leveller, this is a good method if the depth to fill is not to deep.
Ps Any old wall or floor tiles I use to "fill" in I always put the glazed side down, it might not make any difference but when you come to tile you are putting your adhesive on the right side of the tiles. ;)
 
What I would do (and have done in the past) is find the highest point and use that as your datum. Then run 3 screeds made up of floor tile adhesive and old tiles or slates or any old bits of "quarries," make them about 3 or 4 inches wide. You can get the rapid set adhesive for this, dont use the expensive stuff (Blimey Denmark have just scored :cry: ) but use only powdered stuff. Make sure your screeds are(bloody Hell England have equalised :LOL: ) spot on. Then fill the gaps inbetween with adhesive, tiles, slate, gravel and anything like this to bring it up to screed level. Make sure you "bed " everything into the adhesive (dont make it too runny just firm enough not to leave voids).
Like I said I have used this method on floors that are going to get tiled as I have never used self-leveller, this is a good method if the depth to fill is not to deep.
Ps Any old wall or floor tiles I use to "fill" in I always put the glazed side down, it might not make any difference but when you come to tile you are putting your adhesive on the right side of the tiles. ;)
lol u just reminded me england was on cheers for the help m8 will let you know what i do one thing for sure is im going to bring the high spot down as much as i can
 
i would go for the latex option as your goin to try to get the high spot out then if you just go that little but further you can back fill and feather out with latex and your floor will be the same height as the original floor but without the high spot, no disrespect to roy it just seems a lot less messing around to latex the newly made low spot out. ;) and like i said if you did get the hump and used a breaker and went too far just do the same fill the hole with latex with grano chippings this stuff sets rock hard use it all the time then just top with a smooth latex.
 

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