hanging doors and hinges.

[chirpychippy]

I have recently hung a load of new doors into existing linings and experienced a continuing problem with all of them.

To begin, as with all doors, I shoot them into the lining first and add ironmongery second, however the problem I have experienced is with the hinges. I use a router to cut the rebates for the hinges in both door and lining, the router's cutting depth is preset to the total thickness of the hinge so that I get a flush finish on door and lining.

However, on hanging the doors I have noticed that the hanging side of the door pulls to close to the lining thus only giving me a 1mm gap. To remedy this I then have to pack the hinge off to push the door over, but I lose the flush hinge finish!!

Could it be me, or could it be cr*p hinges?

May I ask another, I was taught at college to leave a gap around the door amounting to the thickness of a 2 pence piece when hung, apart from the bottom of course, now, this is all very well and good, but what happens when the door and lining has had three coats of paint each!?

thank you very much

 

[gregers]

crap hinges,im assuming there those cheap brass things you get in the trade packs?there is a thing that i have seen done on site,you can stretch the butts,i,e insert a screw between the two blades(once door is hung)and gently close the door MAKE sure you position the screw heads together so you do not mark the blades,this in turn will move the door over slightly,THIS should not be common practice i hasten to add,
i too was taught to leave a gap like you,if your hanging a door into a painted lining are you shooting the hanging side down?to get it to fit in?or are you just changing the butts?

 

[big-all]

definately cheap hinges if you dont rebate one side in you have your 2mm gap

May I ask another, I was taught at college to leave a gap around the door amounting to the thickness of a 2 pence piece when hung, apart from the bottom of course, now, this is all very well and good, but what happens when the door and lining has had three coats of paint each!?

thats why when you affix the door stop you leave a 1mm gap at the hinge side down to a 0.5mm gap at the lock side this allows several thin coats of paint before you get jamming on the hinge side
the smaller gap on the lock side allows room for one lot of painting but not enough room for the door to "rattle" with the wind

 

[chirpychippy]

i too was taught to leave a gap like you,if your hanging a door into a painted lining are you shooting the hanging side down?to get it to fit in?or are you just changing the butts?[/quote]

yeh often with existing linings neither the hanging side nor the lock side are plumb, normally a bit twisted, buckled etc, so I always shoot the door, planing both the hanging side and the lock side to give a scribed appearance on mentioned sides of door in relation to the lining. It must be the hinges as hung doors today with fire hinges and didn't have the same problem.

 

[Deluks]

Stop getting your doors from Wickes you bloody cheapskate!

 

[chirpychippy]

"WICKES" who said anything about wickes!? ,cheers, but I don't buy my doors from wickes, nor any other timber for that matter, unless of course I need it bent, twisted, cupped etc etc

 

[samohtom]

Proof that old posts can be very useful! I've just hung a couple of doors and had the exact same problem with one (larger gap on the latch side, nearly no gap on the hinge side). I stretched 3 new hinges after screwing them to some bits of hardwood and replaced the ones on the door and it evened it out nicely. Cheers

 

[joinerjohn]

When fitting new doors to old linings, you should consider that the existing cutouts for the hinges in the old lining, may be deeper anyway. Really old door linings will have had hinges, with leafs about 1/8" thick. You then either have to pack these out or reduce the hinge cutout on the door. Sometimes I've even marked the hinge position on the door, but not cut out for the hinge, to compensate for deep cutouts on the lining.

 

[WestmidsChippy]

thickness of a more pricey coin i was always told as in gappage. for the problem, get your amma and metal out and solve the problem that way you lazy git

 

[Alarm]

Never ever used a router for hinges.
Locksmith who always uses a hammer and chisel.

I think using the router stops you seeing "deformities" and lets the above happen.

Not a trained "chippy" just hung many (probably 400) solid core doors and frames. With no problems.

Still fit a mortise lock faster and better than my "chippy" mate.

Okay, thats me for the slaughter.
Brought it on myself.

 

[foxhole]

Also ensure you are fitting the same side of the hinge to doors, the hinges are not symetrical so it's possible to fit them opposing and cause distortion to hinge side.Personally I use a thumb router plane to drop in hinges and keep plate etc.
http://mobergtools.com/small-router-plane.html

 

[gregers]

well i was allways told to make sure the more the knuckle then thats the side that gets fitted to the frame.