Hardwood chopping board bleeds red?

[Johnboy54]

Not a major problem, but it is to do with carpentry?
I proudly made a miniature butcher's chopping board.
It's bolted through, with the chessboard effect achieved with about 1" squares of hardwood, the finished board measuring about 15" x 12".
It took me about 3 days to make.
Looks lovely!
Trouble is, when wiped down, the cloth is dyed red from the end-grain?
I thought I was being clever by using discarded worktops from a school chemistry classroom. They are classed as Heat/Oil/Fire/Chemical resistant, which I thought would be perfect.
All I know is it is hardwood. Which type I don't know.
I know that chopping boards can be made from oak etc, and presumed this wood, being hard, would be ok?
Does oak and other hardwoods suffer from the same bleeding of their colour?
Is this HOFC type of wood no good for a board do you think?
Is that last question far too obvious!
The wife says she doesn't want any more food prepared on it.
She really said I've to throw it in the bin!
Should I?
Thanks.

 

[neilsumner]

I wouldn't prepare food on anything described as being "discarded worktops from a school chemistry classroom"

-Neil

 

[Johnboy54]

Why?
The wood is classed as HOFC, so I presume nothing penetrates it?
Then, I've sawn/planed every piece down by several mm.
Being hardwood, I'd have thought whatever the HOFC grain had minimally soaked up would be gone after this process?
Plus, the tops were professionally sanded every 2 or 3 years by a specialist firm, then coated with a laquer that stopped even the worst chewing-gum from infiltrating.
The end-grain used for chopping on has never even seen H2So4 - being end grain it was on the edges, which were cut well back by me.
I wouldn't have used the wood if I thought there was any possibility of chemical contamination in whatever degree.
I simply ask is it normal for end-grain to bleed?
Does oak etc do the same?
Replies from anyone not in a flippant frame of mind greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

[big-all]

something must have penetrated in to be leaching out

the wood may have been sealed when new was it recoated yearly !!!
suspect 2 to 3 years is to reseal afterthe surface has become porouse

wood is a natural material that breaths

do you have a list of the typical chemicals used in the class over several years !!!!

i am sure some will be highly poisonous

 

[joe-90]

Got to disagree with everyone else here. The bleed that you are getting is simply a natural dye from what is almost certainly mahogany. As you've said, the surface was completely sealed with what is probably a polyurethane varnish impervious to any chemical. The problem for you is the only way to get rid of it would be to bleach it out - but then it won't look like mahogany.

 

[Johnboy54]

Thanks for the replies.
Joe-90 is right about the varnish etc.
Plus, as I said, the wood itself is classed as HOFC resistant, suggesting that even unvarnished, it would withstand penetration from any elements - at least for a while.
I reckon that I need to bin it because of what Joe says is the natural bleeding, which I'm positive is nothing to do with chemicals that have penetrated the wood.
But, if I made one from oak - which I know some boards are made from - does the same bleeding from the end-grain happen, but brown instead of red?
I don't have a piece of oak to try it on, and it would be a costly, time-consuming mistake if I bought some and found it bled.
Perhaps manufacturers have a secret process to stop it happening?
Thanks again.
John

 

[joe-90]

I think you are unlikely to have a problem with oak. I seem to recall that most butcher's blocks are made from hornbeam which is similar to horse chestnut.

 

[Symptoms]

John - I reckon Joe is correct, what you have is either mahogany or teak (or timbers of these families). Really old mahogany tops were periodically sanded & varnished, teak was usually Danish Oiled. Again Joe is correct about the natural pigments.

But none of this matters if Madame has imposed a 'banning order'. So here is a work-around ... buy one very large white ceramic tile, say 12" x 12", fix this with contact adhesive to your creation, hey presto - a hygenic cutting (not chopping!) board. Easy to wipe clean and you can still puff out the chest when proudly saying to guests, "I made this".

 

[neilsumner]

Didn't mean to sound flippant Johnboy.
What I should have explained was that I remember my worktops in the chemistry lab were very battered. Most had 'compass engravings' in them that would have gone straight through any surfacing that was applied to the wood. All sorts of chemicals would have soaked through into the wood beneath.

If the leaching is uniform throughout the block then it is probably a product of the wood itself or maybe one of the treatments. I still think I'd rather not use anything from my old chemistry lab to prepare food on though.

Good luck in getting it sorted.

Cheers

-Neil