Have I sinned or will this gap fill when tiling

[Restoration man]

Hi

I've been redoing the shower room in my old house. The back shower wall was the thickness of a curly wurly wider than a single sheet so I've just went with it. I thought turning the sheets on their side and having a join across the middle would be worse. I measured this out to start with to make sure the tray will fit and it's the internal partition is ever so slightly out. It means gap is about 9mm at worst and tapers.

Will my tiler just fill the gap with tile adhesive when he's tiling?

Cheers

 

[Keithmac]

I've straightened worse than that when tiling our kitchen!, just make sure you talk him through it first (may require a different adhesive).

 

[L95]

Not had my morning coffee, but I'm 99% sure that leaving a gap as such will give you more problems in the long run. And no, tile adhesive won't fill the gap in the manner you want. Most tile adhesives aren't suitable for more than 6 - 8mm (exception being PTB or Pourable One from BAL but that's floor only) and if you've left a gap that big, it will crack. And don't even get me started on where the water is going to go if it can get behind the panels.

 

[Keithmac]

Sorry I misunderstood the first post, thought you meant flatness across the wall rather than gaps at the wall edges..

 

[Restoration man]

The shower is in an alcove. So the photo is looking into the alcove. My issue is that a single sheet of plasterboard is just shy of the full width required by the two perpendicular walls.

Basically the plasterboard sheets don't butt together in the corners.

Pic uploaded again.

Thanks

 

[N0rm]

I have just been doing my shower and unless you plan to tank the plasterboard you should have really used some kind of cement board like hardie backerboard.

To be extra safe cement board and tank it

 

[Restoration man]

I have just been doing my shower and unless you plan to tank the plasterboard you should have really used some kind of cement board like hardie backerboard.

To be extra safe cement board and tank it

With respect it's sheeted with moisture resistant plasterboard as per the photo. I just have a query on the full sheer I used which is 10mm too narrow. I went with it as it means I've left the original manufacturer's edge rather than a cut edge.

 

[ajstoneservices]

Those gaps wont be a problem.

 

[Doggit]

For the cost of another sheet, redo it with the gap the other end, and get a small bag of Gyproc one part plaster to fill the gap in the other corner. As long as the area gets tanked properly, then hardibacker isn't deperate. Remember that tanking is a recent notion, and showers survived. You could insist on 2 part grout if you're really worried.

 

[Restoration man]

Someone I've found out is a tiler has said to me ideally the sheets would be tighter but just fill and smooth with silicone.

But will tile adhesive stick to silicone?

 

[Doggit]

No it won't, but it'll be fine if a tile is bridging across it.

 

[gasbanni]

If that's going to be inside a showering area don't use plasterboard, not any kind take the plasterboard off and use hardiebacker board.

It's completely waterproof and unaffected by water.

How many times have I dealt with tiles popping off of plasterboard when moisture is drawn in by capillary action, the plasterboard swells and a few tiles pop off.
That's why I wouldn't dream of using plasterboard from chest height down in a showering cubicle.

I'm talking about new build too !!!!!!