Hi. I, like many others have had a problem with my Hotpoint HED 6612 disasher stopping working with both pre rinse and wash indicators staying lit. According to the user guide, this fault indication is a 'slow fill time'. I followed all the threads with possible solutions but to no avail. As a self employed electronics engineer, I was determined that this would not defeat me so I took a close look at the Litre counter and found the problem was with a glass encapsulated micro switch. Here is how to check and repair the problem:
1. Disconnect from the Mains electricity and water supply.
2. Remove all the outer covers to expose the Litre counter. It is mounted on the left hand side and is a clear flat persex unit with a white inlet hose at the bottom and two wires from a small plug in connector.
3. Disconnect the inlet hose from the inlet solenoid valve and disgard the hose clamp.
4. Drain any water from the Litre counter. Unplug the small connector on the circuit board and connect a test meter set to measure continuity to the two pins inside the board connector.
5. If you blow into the inlet pipe you will see a small paddle wheel inside the Litre counter spinning round. This should give an alternating on/off contact on the test meter. If it does not, it means that the switch on the board is no good.
6. To replace the switch, carefully flex the small circuit board toward you and pull out. This can be a bit tricky.
7. Replace the glass switch with one taken from a home burglar alarm door switch. Make sure that when you solder the new switch into the slot cut into the board, the flat leaf inside the switch is in the same plane as the circuit board, ie. flat to the board. You can test the switch using the magnet that came with the alarm door switch.
8. Important, before sliding the switch board back into the counter, file the connector pins flat on the back of the cicuit board. This reduces the chance of the switch breaking during reassembly.
9. Test the new switch as in 5.
10. Reconnect the small two pin plug and then the water inlet pipe to the solenoid valve using a new hose clamp of the correct size.
11. Refit external covers, water inlet hose and mains power. Check for water leaks and if AOK all should be back up and working normal.
It is my belief that these delicate glass switches are damaged during the factory assembly and only fail after some time in use.
1. Disconnect from the Mains electricity and water supply.
2. Remove all the outer covers to expose the Litre counter. It is mounted on the left hand side and is a clear flat persex unit with a white inlet hose at the bottom and two wires from a small plug in connector.
3. Disconnect the inlet hose from the inlet solenoid valve and disgard the hose clamp.
4. Drain any water from the Litre counter. Unplug the small connector on the circuit board and connect a test meter set to measure continuity to the two pins inside the board connector.
5. If you blow into the inlet pipe you will see a small paddle wheel inside the Litre counter spinning round. This should give an alternating on/off contact on the test meter. If it does not, it means that the switch on the board is no good.
6. To replace the switch, carefully flex the small circuit board toward you and pull out. This can be a bit tricky.
7. Replace the glass switch with one taken from a home burglar alarm door switch. Make sure that when you solder the new switch into the slot cut into the board, the flat leaf inside the switch is in the same plane as the circuit board, ie. flat to the board. You can test the switch using the magnet that came with the alarm door switch.
8. Important, before sliding the switch board back into the counter, file the connector pins flat on the back of the cicuit board. This reduces the chance of the switch breaking during reassembly.
9. Test the new switch as in 5.
10. Reconnect the small two pin plug and then the water inlet pipe to the solenoid valve using a new hose clamp of the correct size.
11. Refit external covers, water inlet hose and mains power. Check for water leaks and if AOK all should be back up and working normal.
It is my belief that these delicate glass switches are damaged during the factory assembly and only fail after some time in use.
