Height for light switches

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I'm chasing out the house for a sparkie to rewire. I've done the floor sockets at the same height as previously, but there are so many light switch locations I'm changing that I'm going to rechase completely.

What height do they typically tend to be (pre the disabled requirement of 1.2m for new builds)?
 
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I'm chasing out the house for a sparkie to rewire. I've done the floor sockets at the same height as previously, but there are so many light switch locations I'm changing that I'm going to rechase completely.

What height do they typically tend to be (pre the disabled requirement of 1.2m for new builds)?
Not a new build so no height restrictions other than commonsense.
 
The best height is the height at which you would feel round to the other side of a doorway looking for the switch. Try it and see.
 
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I actually prefer the DDA heights now I've got used to them, and would recommend them if you've got the oppourtunity to do so.

When I was an apprentice I was taught 52" to the bottom of switches, and 12" to the bottom of sockets.
 
I have done alot of stuff at the building regs suggestions, people seem to get used to it, even if they are shocked that the sockets have to be sohigh. I think it would be nice if one day every domestic property had switches and sockets accessable to the majority of society at standard levels. A switch at 1200 is easier for kids to operate, a socket at 450 is easier for older people to get down too and clearly the user of a wheelchair has no issues with these locations either as that is what they were designed for.
 
Sockets and light switches at the new build levels does mean one gets use to where to look for them.

However thermostats present a problem. Because they have need for visual reading they should be high yet because they need manual operation they should be low. Also since the same unit senses the heat the higher they are mounted the colder the area will be.

With modern central heating the thermostat is only there to stop cycling during the summer months. The room temperature is set with the radiator thermostatic valves. As a result mounting where the morning sun will warm the unit so switching off central heating on nice days would make sense. However old ideas of fitting in the hall die hard and to convince a plumber that it has changed it's purpose seems hard even though they have fitted the thermostatic radiator valves which are rarely at the prescribed access heights. Mainly as they would not work at those heights.

I had an argument with the building inspector in my mothers house for mounting the thermostat too low. It was set at that level so my mother in her wheel chair could see the markings on it. So much for the levels being set for wheel chair users!
 
Also since the same unit senses the heat the higher they are mounted the colder the area will be.

Are you suggesting that heat doesn't rise or are you suggesting that the heating would shut down before the bottom half of the house got warm enough?
 

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