Help a novice with shelving an airing cupboard :)

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I'm putting up shelves in what will be an airing cupboard. First time project!

I've fixed battens to the wall using rawlplugs and they seem solid enough.

I've now cut the battens to go between them, but have run into a problem.

I bought 4.0x40 mm Woodscrews - Double Countersunk. I drilled pilot holes in each end of the shelf battens, but am finding it difficult to screw them into the batten attached to the wall.

Is this because I am going against the grain and need a different screw - I was thinking Pozi Screws Woodscrews might make a difference, but have no idea.

I am having to hand screw them in because my electric screwdriver is too fat to work that close to the wall. And would 4.0 x 30mm be enough to hold the battens in place or do I need the 4.0x40mm for added strength?

Or do I need a better electric screwdriver?!

Surely this isn't beyond me - I don't want to resort to what no nails!
 
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I'm putting up shelves in what will be an airing cupboard. First time project!

I've fixed battens to the wall using rawlplugs and they seem solid enough.

I've now cut the battens to go between them, but have run into a problem.

I bought 4.0x40 mm Woodscrews - Double Countersunk. I drilled pilot holes in each end of the shelf battens, but am finding it difficult to screw them into the batten attached to the wall.

Is this because I am going against the grain and need a different screw - I was thinking Pozi Screws Woodscrews might make a difference, but have no idea.

I am having to hand screw them in because my electric screwdriver is too fat to work that close to the wall. And would 4.0 x 30mm be enough to hold the battens in place or do I need the 4.0x40mm for added strength?

Or do I need a better electric screwdriver?!

Surely this isn't beyond me - I don't want to resort to what no nails!
 

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Thinner screws would help or drill the hole in the top slats bigger so you are not fighting that friction as well as the wall batten and maybe shorter screws as its only to keep the slats in place. or one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-1...V_JVQBh2vwyafEAQYAiABEgLNRPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
or
Or anything simular

Really appreciate your response and am tryi g the bigger drill hole with same screws, but may go and buy shorter screws if it is still too hard. If I do get new screws, would posi-screws be better and by thinner would you use a 3.0 or 2.0?
 
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Certainly pilot drill all your screw holes. You don't want any roughness or splinters that will snag your woolies.

After fixing battens to the wall, you can assemble the "shelf" like a rectangular tray, separately, and lower it onto the wall battens.

If you leave the screws of the shelf lattice slightly loose, you can distort it into a trapezoid shape to get it past the doorframe.

You can also lift it out for plumbing work or to accommodate different sized items to be aired.
 
Really appreciate your response and am tryi g the bigger drill hole with same screws, but may go and buy shorter screws if it is still too hard. If I do get new screws, would posi-screws be better and by thinner would you use a 3.0 or 2.0?
are you using slotted screws, posi always better. 3 will be ok but you will need a pz1 bit / screwdriver -- has asmaller end to match the small top of 3.0
 
are you using slotted screws, posi always better. 3 will be ok but you will need a pz1 bit / screwdriver -- has asmaller end to match the small top of 3.0

Yes now using smaller screws and the correct screwdriver :) And it's working!

thanks everyone for taking the time to help me.
 
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You could have attached a timber from to back on the shelf’s before putting in the cupboard , no further fixing required .

Yes, if I ever do this again, I wil do that. As @JohnD said, it also allows you to remove shelves as required. I could add more wall battens to make adjustable shelves. Doing these simpler jobs yourself opens your eyes to a world of things you can do.
 

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