Help finding knock in 454 high compression engine

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Hello, my name is David. I pulled apart my engine thinking it was a rod knocking. Maybe, it still is. But I haven't found anything yet. I used plastigage to check all rod bearings and only two mains, so far. The clearances are below.
Also , here is the car and engine:
67 Camaro
Bow tie block 454 bored 030 over
12.5:1 trw pistons
Pink dot factory forged rods
Steel forged crank
Big solid roller cam
L88 cast iron heads ported by SIssel

Clutch turbo 400

Ford 9" 5:13 gears with locker, currie axles

Etc

Here are the bearings specs. Also it has water in oil from an intake coolant leak.
I have been looking for the knock with plastigage.
The results surprised me. For a second, I thought is was number 7, but then it normalized the second and third check.
I also read where old plastigage often reads smaller clearance than actual clearance. I wonder if that is the case here, since the clearances were smaller than expected. Here are the results as best as I could:

Rods:
#1 .0015
#2 .0016
#3 .0015 and second time.0016
#4 .0016-.0017 and second time.0014-.0015
#5 .0014-.0015
#6 .0015
#7 first, second, then third, .0017-.0018 then .0014-.0016 then .0014-.0017
#8 .0015

Main bearings (only checked two so far:
1st, about right on .0016
2nd .0015
 
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Here is a short video of the knock. The valve lash is too loose there and I might have the spark plug wires wrong. But the knock is audible. I don't believe it is a header leak.
Please help me find the issue and repair it. I had the pistons out and back in. There is rust in one cylinder. I am going to hone it and fix the knock when I find it.

 
The bearing clearances are fine - there's no evidence of the knock being caused by this. If you can measure the oil pressure, that would help.
If the plug leads are on incorrectly then you have two cylinders down.......can you get the engine to run a little quicker - say 2000 rpm?
A compression test would be good too - variations need to be no more than 10% different.
John :)
 
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The bearing clearances are fine - there's no evidence of the knock being caused by this. If you can measure the oil pressure, that would help.
If the plug leads are on incorrectly then you have two cylinders down.......can you get the engine to run a little quicker - say 2000 rpm?
A compression test would be good too - variations need to be no more than 10% different.
John :)
Thanks John,
I think I found it. Correct me if I am wrong, please.
While I was taking the connecting rod bolts off, I noticed one rod came loose to quickly. Like, the others gradually came loose with about a third of a turn and this one came loose within about a tenth or less of a turn.
That is supposed to be an indicator of rod bolt stretch. That makes sense.
 
Some posts have been removed.
I reported Mottie for the first disrespectful post not being any help whatsoever. I encourage you all to report and ban posters like him. He isn't doing your forum any good.
I am going to better forum(s).

Mottie should also be stopped from being racist...
 
David, those connecting rod caps are much too loose and I’d suggest that they weren’t properly torqued up in the first place or maybe new bolts were needed? Certainly there is a chance of the rod cap coming adrift here.
If the bolts are the stretch type they would definitely need renewing!
With stretch bolts, they are torqued up to a specific figure and then tightened more, measured in degrees of turn this time. They can only be used once.
Regards
John
 
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