Help me please!?!?

[miffed]

My Baxi Powered Flue Solo (?) all of a sudden does not want to light

Is sounds like water is going through it and the pump feels like it is working, but it just can't get any hot water or central heating.

I am total baffled as to what is going on as it was all working fine last night and it seemed to be ok this morning too.

Help!

Thanks,

Miffed?!?!

 

[miffed]

Hi again all,

Below the pump there are 2 silver boxes that say Honeywell attached to two different pipes. Above the Honeywell silver boxes they converge into one pipe and then they go to the pump.

Whilst I was just upstairs I could hear one of the silver honeywell boxes shorting out and it was also making an electrical smell I have since also found that if it swicth the box into Hot Water mode one of the silver boxes makes a very wierd clicking noise!

Does anyone know what these silver boxes do and if this could be the cause of my problem?

Thanks,

Miffed

 

[miffed]

The silver boxes appear to be these things

If it is clicking should I take it that it is b*gg*r*d? I had notice that a small amount of water has been leaking onto it

Cheers,

Miffed

 

[oilman]

Well done, you've solved your problem.

They are motorised valves and are mains powered, but if you have two, I doubt they have a mid position.

However you need to turn off the power and disconnect the wires. in the terminal box, but for heavens sake (and yours) make a detailed note of where the wires are connected before you do. Once the wires are disconnected, you can replace the head. The head comes off by undoing the single screw on the cover, then two screws inside holding the head to the valve body.

 

[ollski]

The clicking noise is the ratchet slipping which does mean a complete new head as oilman has said. The other way to wire it is with a 5 pin connector block to the original cable. Fix the water leak first though!
Don't understand why you have no heating though it would be a huge coincidence for both valves on a s plan to die together

 

[miffed]

Hi Guys,

I have openned both the zone valves (as they are right next to each other) and one was dripping wet. I powered the whole thing off and tried to dry them with a hairdryer, but still no joy

Finally I have openned the valves by sliding over the sliders (sorry I know nothing about plumming, these are the sliders on the top/bottom of the honeywell zone values which appear to be on upside down) and this still doesn't seem to have made a difference

Are these values smart enough to say to the boiler I am not working properly therefore I wont let you light????

Cheers for the advice so far.

Miffed

 

[miffed]

...is that these are the actual zone valve I have fitted currently:

"Individual V4043H 1056 22mm zone valve(Reference #310820v)
Is a selection of two port valves and has a wide range of applications in domestic central heating systems. The V4043H normally closed models have end switches for electrical control of boiler and pump. The normally open model is particularly applicable to the control of solid fuel systems, since it will open in the event of a power failure.

These valves are also suitable for use in light commercial applications. Valves are available in both 22 and 28mm compression fitting and 1/2", 3/4" and 1" BSP sizes.

All sizes of normally closed valve have a manual lever to facilitate filling and draining down and a 1 metre flying lead.

Price ex VAT: £37.50 £44.06 Including VAT at 17.5%"

Will they be easy to fit if this is indeed the final problem?

Also forget to say I have sorted the water leak.

Cheers,

Miffed

 

[ollski]

Yes if the valve doesn't motor across to make the micro switch the electric current stops right there aborting its journey to pump and boiler. If the top of the valve has a dimple on a head change is easy if not it's a full drain down and i would replace the complete valve head and body.

 

[oilman]

Are these values smart enough to say to the boiler I am not working properly therefore I wont let you light????

No, but they are dumb enough not to operate. Sometimes moving the lever will operate a switch inside, but if the mechanism is worn it needs the motor to drive it fully over. You can by the heads on their own at places like Plumbcentre, and probably many other merchants. Get all the details off your valve, the replacement will probably have a different part number though.

 

[miffed]

Hi Guys,

Thanks again for all the info. So does this seem like the most likely cause of my nightmare Sunday evening?

Is it easier to replace the head or the whole thing? Damn I have learnt a shed load about plumbing this weekend as I have also had to replace the ballcock and stop value arm thingy (told you I was no plumber ) in the main water tank (in the loft) due to that over flowing through the over flow.

Man what a weekend!

Finally why would the boiler still be on even if these zone value weren't working then?!

Thanks.

Miffed

P.S. The Value is a V4043H1056

 

[oilman]

Just replace the head.

Don't know what's controlling which with out a diagram (and it's too late to start tonight).

 

[miffed]

...you should have your name changed to "Da' Man"

Seriously thanks for everything. I will have to phone around tomorrow and try to find out who has the replacement heads in that I need.

Fingers crossed that if fixes the bl**dy problem

Would B&Q do the bits? I don't know any plumbers place around Croydon, but I am sure I can find some

Have a good night Oilman and I will keep you posted

Thanks

Now maybe not so "Miffed"

 

[miffed]

Houston we have Central heating!!!!!

I don't know about hot water yet but hey at least I know that the zone values are defo the prob.

Thanks sooooooooooo much again guys.

Miffed

 

[breezer]

I think i have seen them in Q & B but if you want qaulity look up plumb center (yes its spelt right) in yellow pages, their web site is down just now

 

[ollski]

just remeber if it don't have the little bump on the top you cant change the head without draining down (or bunging) and if you do need to drain down it makes sense to replace the whole valve for a few extra quid. Also get a 5 pin plug connector that way when you have isolated the power you just cut through the old valve power supply wire and wire the new one via the plug, saves all the wires falling out of the wiring centre!
I don't think both valves will have failed...the clicking one yes I suspect not the other, could be wrong though but two totally indipendent valves mechanically failing on the same morning?