Help needed for British Gas WR1/UT2/RF600 Replacement

[Ravenhawk]

I want to replace my current British Gas UT2 programmer, WR1 digistat and RF600 wireless thermostat with a Hive (or similar) equivalent. My boiler is a Baxi Duo-Tec Combi 28 HE A. I find that the wireless thermostat is a bit hit and miss and wanted something a bit easier to control and up-to-date.

From reading on this forum, I see that there are Hive controllers that fit onto the existing WR1 and UT2 backplates. Would I need to upgrade both the WR1 and UT2 programmer, or is there a solution which integrates both systems? I will also need a wireless room stat to replace the RF600.

As I am using a combi boiler, do I need a single or dual system?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[RandomGrinch]

As I am using a combi boiler, do I need a single or dual system?

Just checking, the hot water controls on your UP2 don't do anything?

Would I need to upgrade both the WR1 and UP2 programmer, or is there a solution which integrates both systems? I will also need a wireless room stat to replace the RF600.

Theoretically, a system such as a Hive should be able to replace your entire control system (other manufacturers products are available!).

Hive controllers that fit onto the existing WR1 and UP2 backplates.

Could you show us pictures of the wiring to your backplates?

 

[Deleted member 267285]

If only using a combi, then Hive single channel, but you need to be certain as you mention a dual channel as existing, so similar to above.

 

[Ravenhawk]

Just checking, the hot water controls on your UP2 don't do anything?


Theoretically, a system such as a Hive should be able to replace your entire control system (other manufacturers products are available!).


Could you show us pictures of the wiring to your backplates?

It's a UT2, so it only has the option to turn on the 'advance' function I believe? I've attached a picture of the model below. I will try and get you a picture of the wiring on both backplates but will have to order a small set of screwdrivers as the cowboys from BG have positioned the boxes so close together that I only have an access of around 3" between each box to try and get to the screws underneath.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

So, the Hive or similar should fit onto the back plate, and you need to join the wires up for the existing thermostat or run new wires/cable to the boiler for the hive switching

 

[Ravenhawk]

Just checking, the hot water controls on your UP2 don't do anything?


Theoretically, a system such as a Hive should be able to replace your entire control system (other manufacturers products are available!).


Could you show us pictures of the wiring to your backplates?

Here's pictures of the wiring going into the backplates of the UT2 and WR1

 

[RandomGrinch]

Here's pictures of the wiring going into the backplates of the UT2 and WR1

A wider photo of your controls may help us understand - does the cable from the FCU (fused connection unit) connect to the WR1, before daisy chaining to the UT2, and boiler?

The schematic for the UT2 should look like:

The spare terminal 4 looks as if it is being used to link the thermostat into the circuit.

Given the corrosion on the UT2s back plate, I wouldnt reuse it.

Your WR1 backplate looks ok though.
And if you swapped the cable connected to the UT2 for the cable connected to the boiler (matching the existing wiring colours), the Hive receiver should work!

I.e.

I hope that makes sense!

 

[Ravenhawk]

You are correct. There is an isolating switch below the WR1.

So, if I unwired the UT2 and took the wires out of the UT2 backplate (which are going to the boiler) and wired them exactly as they were (colour wise) into the WR1, it should work?

I guess I would leave the isolating box wired up to the WR2, but remove all the other wires in it's backplate so that the boiler wires replace them?

 

[RandomGrinch]

So, if I unwired the UT2 and took the wires out of the UT2 backplate (which are going to the boiler) and wired them exactly as they were (colour wise) into the WR1, it should work?

Yup!

I guess I would leave the isolating box wired up to the WR2, but remove all the other wires in it's backplate so that the boiler wires replace them?

and double yup!

 

[Ravenhawk]

Thanks for your help. Is this the Hive model I would need for a combi boiler??? My existing thermostat is the BG version of a wireless Drayton Digistat.

https://amzn.eu/d/iDaxhq4

 

[RandomGrinch]

Thanks for your help. Is this the Hive model I would need for a combi boiler??? My existing thermostat is the BG version of a wireless Drayton Digistat.

https://amzn.eu/d/iDaxhq4

Yes, the 'Combi' model is single channel and the one you want.
Post more pics if you're struggling with the wiring, but it should be straightforward.
Good luck

 

[Ravenhawk]

Thank you!!!