help needed wiring a honeywell T6360 room Thermostat

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My current room stat was a potterton model and was not working/taty so i decided to chage it, i purchased a honeywell T6360 stat when i removed the potterton stat it had wires going to the following points..

point 1- red wire
point 2- yellow wire
point 3- blue wire

So i thought it would be a simple case of fitting the new T6360 in the same points-to colours as above, i did this turned it on and it went bang! i actually cooked the control programer! :oops: I now will have to buy a new one (very embarassed) can anyone inform me of what colour wires go to what connection point numbers..?

i cant find a wiring diagram..?

Sorry for the long post, hope someone can help..?
 
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Need to know th emodel of the potterton programmer and i can probably help you
 
almost always there is a diagram on the inside of the programmer cover or on the back.. dig it out mate oat leeeatst get the model number
 
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Sorry mate, completely misunderstood the question..duh! The stat will have on the inside a diagram. The power from the clock / programmer usually shown as L generally goes to 1 (unfamiliar with ur new one but a diagram should be with it. The call for heat is usually number 3, this goes to your diverter valve head (are you a 2port or 3 port valve). if they are all mixed up you're gonna need a meterand may have to inspect the wiring centre. The call wire from the stat goes to the white wite on the 3 port valve and to the brown on a 2 port. The live to the stat will be found with a meter and great care. I would have a go at live (red) , calling (yellow) on 3 and Neutral (blue). If that doesn't work then swap blue / yellow. The worse you can do is blow a fuse...3Amp by the way.
Hope it helps
 
Same thing happended to me last week - replacing the same Potterton PRT100 with the Honeywell and blown the 3A fuse on the timer/program switch.

I replaced the 3A fuse and reconnected the old thermostat to make sure the boiler is still working ~ phew!

Not tried any other combinations yet, need to get more 3A fuses before I do :D

From reading other sites, I think you can leave out the blue wire and just connect red to 1 and yellow to 3.

Please report back with your progress.

Thanks.
 
From reading other sites, I think you can leave out the blue wire and just connect red to 1 and yellow to 3.
Assuming the blue wire is the neutral, the T6360 definitely needs it attached.

Try

Terminal 1 = Red
Terminal 2 = Blue
Terminal 3 = Yellow

If you have a meter, check the voltage between 1 and 2 with the stat set low; it should be 230v. If it isn't check 3 and 2. If that is 230V, then the red and yellow wires need to be swapped over.
 
I'm no expert so confused with whether 'N' is actually at term2 or term3.
Neutral is terminal 2
Live is terminal 1
Switched Live is terminal 3

I agree the diagram is confusing. The little rectangle labelled "heating load" is the boiler, which also has a neutral connection as well as the switched live from terminal 3. It does not mean that the boiler and thermostat neutrals have to be connected together at terminal 2.
 
Blooflame

Can you help me. Looking to replace my thermostat but worried about blowing something. Was going to get the Honeywell t6360 or similar but not sure if this would be a matter of making the same connection.

Thanks
 
Blooflame

Can you help me. Looking to replace my thermostat but worried about blowing something. Was going to get the Honeywell t6360 or similar but not sure if this would be a matter of making the same connection.
 

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