HELP!! No hot water in kitchen mixer.. Ok elsewhere!! ??

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Hi I have a combi boiler which til now has worked great. The problem I have at the moment is there is no hot water coming from mixer tap in the kitchen. Although I have hot water in bathroom upstairs and also downstairs toilet sink. Have a feeling the pressure may not be enough to trigger the boiler to heat the water, tho there hasn't been too significant drop in the pressure. Having been reading that it may perhaps be the diverter valve diaphragm that needs replacing?? Have increased flow to mains to full and cleaned washers etc on mixer tap! Any advice would be most welcome.
 
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Isolate hot supply from boiler, run hot kitchen tap and let us know what happens
 
With the water back on, what is the flow rate at the hot tap and can you take the spout off to clean out any crap?
 
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Have removed and cleaned the spout to no avail... Haven't had a chance to measure the water flow tho I can tell u it's below average and less than it was since this problem started!
 
Hi Tom it's a Baxi combi 105e

I've also tried replacing the tap cartridge but have the same issue, thinking it might be faulty!
 
If the hot water works on downstairs basin and upstairs, then its not likely to be a boiler issue. The problem will more likely be pipe blockage or more probably a faulty tap.

Can you take a pic of the pipework under the tap, isolation valves etc. If you isolate the valve going upto the hot connection on tap, and disconnect the pipe then slowly turn on valve, does any water come out. does it get hot?
 
excellent pics. You see the isolation valves that the flexi pipes are connected to? Disconnect the flexi pipe from the valve, they wont be that tight. (BUT turn the water off first). Then slowly turn the water back on and see if water comes out of the valve at a decent rate. If it does, the problem is with the tap. If it does not, then blockage is in hot water pipe somewhere in that area.
 
DIYPlumber thanks a million u were spot on with ur advice.. The isolation valve was rusted and was causing the blockage! I now have a new one which I've fitted with perfect flow to trigger the boiler to heat the water!

However the isolation valve I've fitted came with a nut and compression on either side ... And I haven't replaced these as I don't remember there being a compression fitting on the flexi end?? And it is dripping slightly do I need to fit the copper compression ring on either side or just try and tighten some more?? There was one already on the copper pipe side should I replace that too?? Many thanks
 
DIYPlumber thanks a million u were spot on with ur advice.. The isolation valve was rusted and was causing the blockage! I now have a new one which I've fitted with perfect flow to trigger the boiler to heat the water!

However the isolation valve I've fitted came with a nut and compression on either side ... And I haven't replaced these as I don't remember there being a compression fitting on the flexi end?? And it is dripping slightly do I need to fit the copper compression ring on either side or just try and tighten some more?? There was one already on the copper pipe side should I replace that too?? Many thanks

The flexi pipe (where it connects onto the isolation valve) will have a rubber washer, you wont need an olive on that end. However the other end of the valve, with the olive, may not fit 100% snug with the old olive, so its probably better to cut the pipe cut below the old olive, remove that bit of pipe with the olive and fit the new nut and olive and connect up. That way you will have a perfectly tight snug fit. Tighten it, but dont over tighten as that too can cause leaks.
 
Actually it was dripping slightly from the flexi end and have tightened it a little more.. Which seems to have stopped but will check again for any leaks tomorrow!

Thanks again for some sound advise that in the end only cost £2.50 for a new valve! Whereas I was being advised to get an engineer to come and take the boiler apart to check the diaphragm which I've no doubt would have cost considerably more without resolving the problem!

Thank you!
 
Actually it was dripping slightly from the flexi end and have tightened it a little more.. Which seems to have stopped but will check again for any leaks tomorrow!

Thanks again for some sound advise that in the end only cost £2.50 for a new valve! !


whoa hold on bro, my advice isnt free! i'll send an invoice for £89............................. per word.... :p

Nah kidding, your welcome! Can't believe they advised you to start stripping boiler apart :LOL:
 
Nah that wouldn't have been so bad... It's when they start saying don't remove the cover in ur boiler cos you'll be breaking the law and u must get a qualified engineer to come out and look at it.. Is it any wonder people get upset when they get charged astronomical prices for what sometimes is a relatively simple cheap solution!
 

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