HELP PLEASE WID CEILING LIGHT

[mcoy]

hi, i jus bought a ceiling light from ikea, thinking it wud be wasy to install myself, i got to work

after removing the old light (a simple hanging bulb), i realised there were three wires, each with its own set of red black and green wires.
one of the sets had a black wire witha bit of red casing on the end (dunno if that helps or if its a mistake)

the 1st set i tried had no effect, same with the 2nd set, but when i tried the 1nd set, the lights came on, but then when i checked the switch, it was off, lol, i found the light was working, but i cudnt turn the light off.

PLEASE HELP ME

 

[plugwash]

your 3 cables are 2 cuircuit cables and a switch cable

the one with the red indicator on the black wire is the switch cable

heres how you wire it

all earths sleeved and joined and joined to the fitting if it has an earth terminal

the blacks of the two cuircuit cables join to the fittings neutral terminal

the reds of all three cables join together but not to the fitting the fitting may come with a spare terminal for this if not use a pice of terminal block and make sure it's *inside* the fitting

the black wire with the red indicator goes to the live on the fitting

 

[dingbat]

hi, i jus bought a ceiling light from ikea, thinking it wud be wasy to install myself, i got to work

after removing the old light (a simple hanging bulb), i realised there were three wires, each with its own set of red black and green wires.
one of the sets had a black wire witha bit of red casing on the end (dunno if that helps or if its a mistake)

PLEASE HELP ME

See the post called 'for reference' at the top of the page. The black wire marked with red sleeve is your switched live. Connect all the red wires together, connect all the earth wires together (and use green+yellow sleeving) and then connect the two non-sleeved blacks together. Your light's neutral connects to the non-sleeved black and the live to the sleeved black. Do it all with the power OFF!

Ideally you should make all these connections in a suitably rated 4-terminal junction box.

But plugwash beat me to it!

 

[plugwash]

i thought you were not technically meant to use junction boxes in inacessible locations

best to use terminal block inside the fitting if there is room

 

[dingbat]

i thought you were not technically meant to use junction boxes in inacessible locations

best to use terminal block inside the fitting if there is room

All connections should be accessible. In this case it depends on the size of the hole in the ceiling or access from above. (I did say 'ideally') Trouble with ordinary terminal blocks is their ability to handle the heat that can build up in many light bases - you can get higher temperature rated ones and porcelain ones are available from wholesalers.

 

[plugwash]

no there are exceptions to the accessible rule crimped or soldered connections do not have to be accessible

aparently the way sparkys deal with this is to use a chockbox one of these but use crimps intead of terminal block inside but you'd need to get a decent ratchet crimper if you wanted to do it this way

 

[dingbat]

Fair enough, plug. Reg 526-04 also includes compound-filled or encapsulated joints, welded and brazed joints and a couple of other exceptions...

But the real advantage of crimped joints is the small joint size, an advantage you lose when you put them in a chocbox. Surely the real answer is for manufacturers to design their fittings to accommodate a standard three-plate ceiling rose?

 

[mcoy]

thank u so much, i used the terminal connector from ma previous light an had sum thick wires an worked a treat
thank u 2 every1 whu replied

 

[ban-all-sheds]

mcoy - for future reference, please note that you are using a keyboard to compose your messages, not a telephone keypad, and you are posting to a bulletin board, not sending SMS text messages.