Help plumbing a new cistern

[curium]

I've thrown out my close-coupled toilet and bought a conceala 2 concealed cistern and a back to wall floor mounted pan.

Unfortunately the old cistern had the inlet on the bottom left and the new one is located on the top left.

Here is a picture of the inlet pipe

Untitled

• curium
• 11 Mar 2009
• 1

I need to extend the inlet pipe up by 50 cm and then do a U-turn to connect with the cistern.
The access to the cistern will be located higher up the wall so i also want to move the service valve.
In view of the fact that this lower section of pipe will not be easily accessible I'm reluctant to use a compression fitting to extend the length of the pipe.

BnQ offer an alternative fitting that apparently you just coat with flux and then heat the join until solder runs out the end (although in this case the solder will need to run uphill). Are these fittings any good or should I call a plumber to solder the fitting?

Second question - I need to connect the end of the copper pipe from the inlet to the plastic thread on the cistern inlet. What type of connector do I need to buy?
Here is a picture of the cistern inlet - it appears to have a plastic object inside - Is this normal?

Untitled

• curium
• 11 Mar 2009
• 1

 

[gas4you]

First question, no you can solder this yourself, but make sure there is no water in the pipe first.

Solder will 'run uphill' it is called capillary action.

Second question, just connect your service valve onto this, fitting a new fibre washer. DO NOT over tighten otherwise you risk stripping the plastic thread.

 

[swidders]

The fitting you describe is an integral solder ring (or "yorkshire") and is fine - plumbers do use these at times. You will need a blowtorch to heat it.

The connection to the valve is a 1/2" tap connector - for ease of installation, you may wish to use a flexi hose connector since getting copper in exactly the right place requires a bit of a knack if you haven't done much plumbing before.

The insert is standard.

 

[GodKnows]

You can get a plumber to solder a section of copper pipe OR you can go to a good supplier, NOT B+Q, and buy a speedfit chrome flex pipe in whatever length you require with an half inch tap connector on one end and just fit a small section of copper pipe on your service valve Then no need to solder and this can give you some flexibility if you have to replace a part fella... The "Worm," restrictor in the connectionm is to reduce the water pressure to the cistern to stop water hammer on the valve

 

[curium]

The fitting you describe is an integral solder ring (or "yorkshire") and is fine - plumbers do use these at times. You will need a blowtorch to heat it.

The connection to the valve is a 1/2" tap connector - for ease of installation, you may wish to use a flexi hose connector since getting copper in exactly the right place requires a bit of a knack if you haven't done much plumbing before.

The insert is standard.

I don't have a blow-torch but I do have a heat-gun (for paint-stripping) will this do?

 

[swidders]

The fitting you describe is an integral solder ring (or "yorkshire") and is fine - plumbers do use these at times. You will need a blowtorch to heat it.

The connection to the valve is a 1/2" tap connector - for ease of installation, you may wish to use a flexi hose connector since getting copper in exactly the right place requires a bit of a knack if you haven't done much plumbing before.

The insert is standard.

I don't have a blow-torch but I do have a heat-gun (for paint-stripping) will this do?

No, afraid not - it won't have enough heat