Hi all.
Ok...deep breath.
I have a Suprima 50 that was in my property when I moved in...so is about 9 years old. 7 Rads. Copper cylinder...Recent pump change.
Had the whole PCB problem in the last year and has been running fine on a new one since then.
Recently had a problem, which was reported by the LED as APS/Flow Switch fault. No Flow switch is fitted.
Much investigation...lead to removal of fan...and scrapping "crap" out of the fan housing and also, out of the Tube, that the APS hose fits on to.
So the tube was blocked, meaning the APS wasn't functioning correctly.
Sorted...happy and warm.
In the last week, the problem has reoccurred...in my haste..I purchased and fitted a new APS (Honeywell) today. Didn't work.
Removed fan again and found the crap to have returned.
This I think...may have something to do with a leak on my roof...I think water is getting into the flue...gathering crap with it and dropping into the fan...but that is another issue.
My problem now...is that my boiler, will repeatedly fire up for 10 or so seconds, then the pump will run, then the boiler will fire...shut off etc and nothing is really getting very warm, other than my cheeks.
Also, it will occasionally revert back to the flashing red light (3 or 4 times per second) signalling an APS fault, but will cure itself and start the cycle again.
I have bled the radiators (I do have one upstairs that collects air)...I have bled the pump.
I have tried altering the Temp control on the boiler and room stat (also fairly new).
I am considering putting the old APS back in and also considering the prospect of a cold Xmas.
The fan spins lovely...blades are a little messy but not blocked.
Can anyone please tell me what to do?
I think I will put the old APS back in anyway, as that seems to be the only thing that has actually changed. How about the tubes to the APS? How tight should they be?
What is the significance of "System Bypass"?
Sorry for the essay.
Regards
Gary
Ok...deep breath.
I have a Suprima 50 that was in my property when I moved in...so is about 9 years old. 7 Rads. Copper cylinder...Recent pump change.
Had the whole PCB problem in the last year and has been running fine on a new one since then.
Recently had a problem, which was reported by the LED as APS/Flow Switch fault. No Flow switch is fitted.
Much investigation...lead to removal of fan...and scrapping "crap" out of the fan housing and also, out of the Tube, that the APS hose fits on to.
So the tube was blocked, meaning the APS wasn't functioning correctly.
Sorted...happy and warm.
In the last week, the problem has reoccurred...in my haste..I purchased and fitted a new APS (Honeywell) today. Didn't work.
Removed fan again and found the crap to have returned.
This I think...may have something to do with a leak on my roof...I think water is getting into the flue...gathering crap with it and dropping into the fan...but that is another issue.
My problem now...is that my boiler, will repeatedly fire up for 10 or so seconds, then the pump will run, then the boiler will fire...shut off etc and nothing is really getting very warm, other than my cheeks.
Also, it will occasionally revert back to the flashing red light (3 or 4 times per second) signalling an APS fault, but will cure itself and start the cycle again.
I have bled the radiators (I do have one upstairs that collects air)...I have bled the pump.
I have tried altering the Temp control on the boiler and room stat (also fairly new).
I am considering putting the old APS back in and also considering the prospect of a cold Xmas.
The fan spins lovely...blades are a little messy but not blocked.
Can anyone please tell me what to do?
I think I will put the old APS back in anyway, as that seems to be the only thing that has actually changed. How about the tubes to the APS? How tight should they be?
What is the significance of "System Bypass"?
Sorry for the essay.
Regards
Gary