Hi,
I recently had some dampproofing work done on my flat which involved in the cupboard where the hot water cylinder and pumps are and as part of the job they put in a new hot water tank which is very well insulated.
As part of this they got rid of the old winter and summer valves and replaced them with one manual diverter valve which enables me to have hotwater only or a mixture of hotwater and heating but not heating only.
They also added a thermostat to the tank which by a wire conducts heat to a thermostatic valve on the inlet to the tank. If the tank is up to temperature then the incoming water is diverted straight to the outlet of the hot water tank and thence back to the return shared with the heating and back to the boiler.
The problem I am having is that when the tank is up to temperature the boiler goes in cycles on and off, and there is overflow on the outlet at the top floor of the house, so seems like things are getting too hot.so it seems to me that the returning very hot water is making the boiler cut out. And while it is -3C outside I need the heating on.
So here is the setup of the central heating at present:
- boiler Radiant RS20-e 40-60 open vented (on the 1st floor)
- drayton controller (told it is a LP type, installed about 7 years ago (1st floor)) it has separate hot water and heating timers although I only use the heating side for both.
- the single pipe goes down to the ground floor where it mets the pump Grundfos selectric type UPS 15 - 50 130.
- then the 22mm pipe is teed
= one pipe is 22mm and has a manual valve which either stpps the flow (this is the heating circuit)
= the other pipe goes to the hot water cylinder and the mechanisms described above.
So here are the questions!
1) am I right in thinking in the current set up that the hot water cylinder is governing the whole heating dynamic since when it is up to temperature then the heating shuts off then will turn on for a minute or so then off again.
2) Since there is only one pipe for heating and hot water from the boiler is it possible to install a mid point three port valve, below the pump, with cylinder thermostat and some wiring from the controller to ensure that when the cylinder is up to temperature then all water is shut off to it leaving it all for heating?
3) Is the controller a drayton LP series (I am told) up to the job for controlling a three port valve with the left and right hand side of the controller being hot water and heating respectively even if the water comes from the same source pipe from the boiler?
4) Or would it be better to think more simply in that changing the thermostatic valve on the entrance to the cylinder to one that just shuts off at the correct temperature and just stops the flow (I am concerned that if it is summer and I have manually turned flow to the heating off and the boiler is timed to come on then this might be dangerous).
many thanks
Tom
I recently had some dampproofing work done on my flat which involved in the cupboard where the hot water cylinder and pumps are and as part of the job they put in a new hot water tank which is very well insulated.
As part of this they got rid of the old winter and summer valves and replaced them with one manual diverter valve which enables me to have hotwater only or a mixture of hotwater and heating but not heating only.
They also added a thermostat to the tank which by a wire conducts heat to a thermostatic valve on the inlet to the tank. If the tank is up to temperature then the incoming water is diverted straight to the outlet of the hot water tank and thence back to the return shared with the heating and back to the boiler.
The problem I am having is that when the tank is up to temperature the boiler goes in cycles on and off, and there is overflow on the outlet at the top floor of the house, so seems like things are getting too hot.so it seems to me that the returning very hot water is making the boiler cut out. And while it is -3C outside I need the heating on.
So here is the setup of the central heating at present:
- boiler Radiant RS20-e 40-60 open vented (on the 1st floor)
- drayton controller (told it is a LP type, installed about 7 years ago (1st floor)) it has separate hot water and heating timers although I only use the heating side for both.
- the single pipe goes down to the ground floor where it mets the pump Grundfos selectric type UPS 15 - 50 130.
- then the 22mm pipe is teed
= one pipe is 22mm and has a manual valve which either stpps the flow (this is the heating circuit)
= the other pipe goes to the hot water cylinder and the mechanisms described above.
So here are the questions!
1) am I right in thinking in the current set up that the hot water cylinder is governing the whole heating dynamic since when it is up to temperature then the heating shuts off then will turn on for a minute or so then off again.
2) Since there is only one pipe for heating and hot water from the boiler is it possible to install a mid point three port valve, below the pump, with cylinder thermostat and some wiring from the controller to ensure that when the cylinder is up to temperature then all water is shut off to it leaving it all for heating?
3) Is the controller a drayton LP series (I am told) up to the job for controlling a three port valve with the left and right hand side of the controller being hot water and heating respectively even if the water comes from the same source pipe from the boiler?
4) Or would it be better to think more simply in that changing the thermostatic valve on the entrance to the cylinder to one that just shuts off at the correct temperature and just stops the flow (I am concerned that if it is summer and I have manually turned flow to the heating off and the boiler is timed to come on then this might be dangerous).
many thanks
Tom
