Help! Uneven laminate

[Naut2k12]

Hi All,

So the examination of the house I just purchased continues and takes me to the laminate flooring in the rear room that adjoins the conservatory. I noticed this floor was not level and you could bounce on certain laminates - mainly towards the conservatory and where the end of the house sat.

First of all they are not connected correctly as it seems that laminate in the conservatory was laid after.

I decided to remove the skirting board that sits on the back wall adjoined the conservatory and try and remove the last part of laminate to take a look.

Pictures below, but what I discovered is making me think that I should remove all the laminate and level the flooring perhaps with MDF sheets?

The brickwork low down was visible and I can feel airflow (perhaps just ventilation?

The initial wooden blocks the previous owner used as supports seem to be crumbling! For info the house was built in the 1920/1930s

My questions really are:

1) Should I remove all the laminate and level the floor with MDF sheets? I have no idea what I will find underneath

2) Does the brick work need to be covered ?

3) Should I be worried about the air I can feel?

I am a novice to DIY so please be gentle

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• Naut2k12
• 4 May 2012
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• Naut2k12
• 4 May 2012
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• Naut2k12
• 4 May 2012
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[Naut2k12]

Help!

 

[Naut2k12]

The room measures 420cm x 320cm.

It does seem to have some wooden beams across that seem to be falling apart towards the edges.

I have picked up enough chipboard to cover the room and have it supported by the beams, hopefully they don't break with pressure, but they are quite thick in size!

 

[Naut2k12]

turns out the main beams (that I can see) are easy to break with hand and perhaps need replacing? Should I even consider going down this route?

 

[big-all]

if its click together laminate you will need around 10% spare to lift and relay assuming its not glued
air flow is normal the skirting covers the gaps between plaster and floor keeps the draughts out

 

[Naut2k12]

Hi big-all,

Thanks for your reply!

I have started to remove the laminate, but my main concern is the main wooden beams underneath the house. You can kinda see it on the 3rd picture - It seems its degrading and is the issue that is causing the bouncyness in the laminate, so I was wondering if I should actually attempt to change it or not be too worried about it and lay down some boards on top to make it even before putting the laminate back.

Thanks

 

[big-all]

can you aim your mobile phone under the floor and get pictures off a few timbers[underneath looking up]

if you open up enough could you get underneath to get access

 

[Naut2k12]

can you aim your mobile phone under the floor and get pictures off a few timbers[underneath looking up]

if you open up enough could you get underneath to get access

I'll take a few pictures tonight and get back to you! Thanks !

 

[Naut2k12]

Apologies for the delay! Had to go away for work

Took some pics....

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• Naut2k12
• 15 May 2012
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• Naut2k12
• 15 May 2012
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• Naut2k12
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• Naut2k12
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• Naut2k12
• 15 May 2012
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Seems that I could get under the floorboards if I took some out. From the pics I noticed the end of one beam is badly breaking apart and seems to float at the last point! Further pics underneath show that it's not as widespread as first thought ... So I still wonder, should I just try and apply a temp fix or take the whole flooring up and redo the main beam ?

 

[Symptoms]

Naut - bouncy floors usually means rotten joists below and from your pics you seem to have localised rot, especially near that doorway into the conservatory; that doorway may have always existed (pre-conservatory) as an external doorway. This situation often led to structural timbers (joists) below the floor to rot as they were in direct contact with earth or masonry which was in contact with earth.

Your fix is to test the joists for the extent of the rot ... jab that screwdriver into the joists at various places to discover the 'soft bits'. You'll then need to saw off these rotten sections of joist, but a foot or two beyond the rotten sections into 'good'wood. The obtain some treated timber of similar dimensions to the old stuff and bolt the new to the existing to form good joist. Where this new stuff meets any masonry ensure that you slip-in sections of DPC (you can buy rolls of this proper plakka stuff) to isolated the wood from any future moisture. Whilst your at it get a can timber treatment fluid and either spray (a garden sprayer will do) or brush the stuff on to as much of the joistwork you can.

Re-fix the floorboards ... bin any of these that are rotten and replace with new f/bds or ply.

Re-post if you want more detailed info.

 

[Naut2k12]

Hi Symptons!

Thanks a lot for taking the time to respond. I found that really useful. I do have a question though, as I am going to endeavour to remove more laminate flooring to have a proper look, screwdriver in hand!

What would be the best way to bolt the original joist to new joist ?

Also, what is proper plakka stuff?

Thanks for your helpful response!

 

[Symptoms]

Naut -

"What would be the best way to bolt the original joist to new joist ?"

If the join position is unsupported below (no sleeper wall ... a low wall that supports joists and often has gaps for air flow in it) then clamp the new and old timber together then with an electric drill make maybe three 10mm holes spaced about 100mm apart through both. Through these holes slip 3 galvanised coach bolts, washer and tighten-up the nuts; tip: before bolting together apply some building adhesive (gripfil or similar) to the mating surfaces. If the join of the joists fall above a sleeper wall then use the above adhesive and maybe five long screws to pull the timber together ... you'll not need the bolts here as the joists join will be supported by the wall.


"Also, what is proper plakka stuff?"

It's a roll of black plastic (plakka ) damp proof course material that come in different widths but you'll probably get away with 100mm wide. Obtained in a builders merchant or B&Q

 

[Naut2k12]

Thanks Symptons!

Just one more thing, is it ok to just bolt the new joist next to an existing piece or shall I try and make a scarf joint or half lap scarf joint (I've been looking things up - see http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/scarf-woodworking-joints.html

I don't think I would be able to do any of the others though lol ..

Or because this is under the flooring, there is no need for a good finish and having them bolted side by side would be just fine?

Now I know what plakka is

 

[Symptoms]

Naut - no need for any fancy carpentry here, just bolt through the overlapping timber. Usually scarfs and so on would be used in exposed positions where aesthetics are important or for particular structural reasons.