Help with dado rail on stairs please[pics show layout]

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Hi.Guys this is driving me nuts,How would I tackle fitting dado rail around my staircase?The lower hallway shows a gaffer tape line at 1 mtr on the left how do I make the turn and make the correct angle upto to my landing window?The upper hall is marked at 1 mtr how would I make the angle downwards to my landing also marked at 1 mtr.Thank you
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Almost there , if you over lap your top and bottom marks then join them up you will have your angle .
 
In the first post pic I posted that means the dado would very low at the bottom :?: In the second post pic how far out should I come out horizontal, if not at all would this not look odd as I have a small landing at the lower window.Should the angle run parallel the the stairs. :?: Few more pics may give a better idea.
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What you need is to know is the height of the dado rail you need then make a timber batten of that height, put the timber batten in upright position on the staircase string with a pencil on top (might be best to tape it or drill a hole to hold the pencil) hold the timber upright using the string as a guide ( a spirit level will be useful) and draw the line until you reach the top. Where you see the curve bit from the string, draw a straight line where 2 line meet. I don't know if I'm clear on this, if not, get back to us.
 
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dado rail was never meant for stairs, it's purpose was to protect the wall from chair backs.

that said, depending on the stair arrangement, it's not unusual to have the dado drop vertically (coming downstairs) or rise vertically (going upstairs) before actually continuing diagonally with the pitch of the stairs.

for instance, in the picture with the sub-landing window, the dado to the left of the window will need to drop vertically before proceeding diagonally with the pitch of the stairs.
 
Think I may have it now with your help guys[this was the battern method].The tape is the same hight from the top of the stringer on the lower and upper stairs[and it worked out just about right each side of my sub landing window].I think i may have to reduce the hight of 1 mtr which set at the upper hall window,As it does'nt look quite right on the left as you climb the stairs.
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for instance, in the picture with the sub-landing window, the dado to the left of the window will need to drop vertically before proceeding diagonally with the pitch of the stairs.
If I do this,I can't follow the angle of the lower stringer or can I, Am I missing something :?:
 
youve got it pretty much right the only part i can see you need to adapt is the first turn at 90 degrees you also alter from horizontal at the corner that wont work you can only change direction on one plane at a time

move the transition from horizontal to the stair angle 4 inches away from the corner to give you enough wood to hold onto whilst cutting
 
big-all said:
youve got it pretty much right the only part i can see you need to adapt is the first turn at 90 degrees you also alter from horizontal at the corner that wont work you can only change direction on one plane at a time

move the transition from horizontal to the stair angle 4 inches away from the corner to give you enough wood to hold onto whilst cutting
Sorry I am having trouble understanding this. :oops:
 
ok stand at the bottom of the stairs look up at the left hand corner
the tape goes round the corner and up at the same time
you can either go round the corner or up but not both

get 2 sheets of paper cut one at 45% to emulate the change off angle then hold it against the other uncut piece one is longer than the other because its cut at 45% so you move away from the corner so you can cut both bits at the same 22.5% they then match each other

4"was the minimum from the corner as you have to hold it whilst cutting

clear as mudd eeehh :D :D ;)
 
Also rather than taking the dado down onto the bottom newel return it on itself like you have on the cornice . Straighten it out first like Al says 4" and then return it .
 
big-all said:
ok stand at the bottom of the stairs look up at the left hand corner
the tape goes round the corner and up at the same time
you can either go round the corner or up but not both

get 2 sheets of paper cut one at 45% to emulate the change off angle then hold it against the other uncut piece one is longer than the other because its cut at 45% so you move away from the corner so you can cut both bits at the same 22.5% they then match each other

4"was the minimum from the corner as you have to hold it whilst cutting

clear as mudd eeehh :D :D ;)
Think I got it Is this how you mean?
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exelent if only i was as clever as you i could have put a picture in and saved a million words :D :D :D ;)
 
JFC said:
Also rather than taking the dado down onto the bottom newel return it on itself like you have on the cornice . Straighten it out first like Al says 4" and then return it .
Like this?
Picture1139.jpg
 
regarding the picture above, i think the rising diagonal line needs to level out about 3/4's of the way up the first flight, before proceeding up the next flight.
 
big-all said:
exelent if only i was as clever as you i could have put a picture in and saved a million words :D :D :D ;)

I had to learn how to post pic's I could of never explained in words only. :)
 

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