Help with plastering damp walls and internal wall insulation

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Hi

I am after some advice if that’s OK, as I am going round in circles here as I don’t have the knowledge - however I am really trying, and it would be good for me to understand. I am the landlord of a property – small terrace built around 1900. The now ex-tenant never opened a window, dried washing inside the property and didn’t put the heating on, despite repeated requests from my letting agent. Consequently, my lovely house is now full of condensation. Had a RICS surveyor go out who confirmed this. The surveyor stated he saw no evidence of rising damp, but the floors would need to be taken up to confirm which I intend to do. In his report he states:

Internal repairs should include replacement of spoilt plaster coverings; consideration may be given to introducing insulated plasterboards to improve thermal performance of the walls and reduce the impact of low surface temperatures.

When re plastering, appropriate plaster coverings should be applied. If significant salt contamination remains in the masonry, typically trades prefer using a cavity membrane or salt inhibitor to protect new plaster finishes.
Recommended Actions:
Remove spoilt and damaged dry-lined coverings – consider replacement with insulated plasterboard
Replace salt contaminated plaster to lounge party wall

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My letting agent had plasterer’s go in to quote for removing the wet plaster and/or heavily salted plaster and replace. That’s fine – were I am confused is regarding the internal insulation as I have read in houses of this age, that due to them being solid walls, internal wall insulation can cause more damp problems – and I could really do without introducing more damp! This is the email from my letting agent. Can anyone let me know if what is being suggested is adequate and would solve the problem?

Many thanks for any help!

I asked the plasterer about the effects of using insulated boards, or installing internal insulation and then plastering over, on the ability of the wall to breathe. The plaster did think this would be a problem, particularly as the gable wall is made of engineering brick – which has very small mortar gaps and is impermeable, so doesn’t breathe much anyway. He has suggested knocking off all the affected plaster and installing pressure treated timber battens directly to the brickwork, then screwing the new insulated boards to these before a plaster skim. This would give the benefit of some insulation and leave an air gap behind the boards to allow air to circulate.

On the party wall side, they are suggesting removal of all the affected plaster and then reboarding in the same way (with battens, but normal plasterboards) which should prevent them bridging the existing DPC. They did take out a piece of board from the wall where the kitchen door handle had already damaged it (the tenant had slammed it against the wall). The plaster board was very wet, but the brick wall behind was dry, suggesting its not rising damp but condensation). Upstairs, the only badly affected plasterwork appears to be in the alcoves either side of the chimney in the front bedroom. These areas would be treated in the same way as the gable wall in the kitchen.

The firm wouldn’t be offering any warranty on re-occurring damp issues (the only firms that would are the specialist damp companies) and they are a small two-man outfit (not VAT registered). However, we have used them before and had no complaints. They have quoted £1200 for the work downstairs and a further £600 for the bedroom upstairs, inclusive of all materials and waste disposal.
 
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Looks very much like bad ventilation / condensation.

Was it all good before?
 
Yes Koolpc, all good before. The surveyor too confirmed it was condensation too.

I am just bothered that the plasterer's internal wall insulation solution will be a 'solution' and not cause more damp
 
Yes Koolpc, all good before. The surveyor too confirmed it was condensation too.

I am just bothered that the plasterer's internal wall insulation solution will be a 'solution' and not cause more damp

If it were me, i would make sure there is good ventilation happening and see what happens when you let the place breath before doing anything expensive.
 
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Thanks Koolpc.

So are you suggesting just get the walls replastered without the internal wall insulation as they may well be ok without it? I have never had this issue with previous tenants.
 
Rent a dehumidifier and some fans , dry the place out before you do anything..

Is the tenant still in situ ?
 
No tenant left last week in April, so I was hoping it had adequate drying time by now?
 
I doubt it, get a dehumidifier and a moisture meter, get it dry first before assessing damage,
 
Dont do anything. Let the house dry out first..
 
Thanks to you both for your kind replies. Once the house is dry what are your thoughts on the solution offered by the plaster and the internal wall insulation?
 
Just a DIYer :)

You could consider plasterboard adhesive foam instead of battens to attach the boards.
It is waterproof so moisture/contaminates cannot transfer from brick to board.
£8 tin does two full boards.
 
Thanks for your reply mcprinter, appreciate it! Does the adhesive foam allow damp to penetrate at all?
 
I agree Murdochcat, and this will be done. Its just where to go after that. Is what the plaster is suggesting a good way forward?
 
Thanks for your reply mcprinter, appreciate it! Does the adhesive foam allow damp to penetrate at all?

No. The foam is waterproof. Any damp on the brickwork will not be able to transfer through the foam to the plasterboard.
The circles you can see on your walls may be from the dot and dab standard plasterboard adhesive that does allow moisture to pass through.
Edit: I don't think you currently have plasterboard reading back. Not relevant!

I must stress that I am DIY though.
Foam may not be the solution for your situation and the ventilation suggested.
Worked for me when I patched a troublesome damp spot on an exterior (1930's) wall but I also removed the plaster that had been applied all the way to the floor and put some damp rods in. All good 3-4 years later.

The instructions say to apply a full bead to the perimeter of the board and a zig-zag in the middle. That's how I have done it.
This would not allow airflow. Not sure if it could be applied in a dots.

Strips of DPM or plastic spacers behind battens could be a belt and braces.
 

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