help with upstand gaps

[snadge]

Hi

My girlfriend decided she wanted to use Oak Skirtings as 'upstands' for her oak worktop - thing is there are gaps underneath (looks like the joiner hasnt installed the worktop level) and gaps at the top left when we come to fix it on and it will be pushed right back - the wall has slight discrepancies in it too (hence the gaps)

can anyone advise whats the best way or stuff to use to fill these gaps?
and whats the best way to fix them tightly to the wall?

I have included a photo

I was thinking of winding the cupboard legs down a bit more at back of sink to try and close gap a bit, I think that might work a little bit

photo -> http://i51.tinypic.com/3582ouo.jpg

THANK YOU

 

[joinerjohn]

I'm assuming that the worktops have already been siliconed at the back to prevent water getting behind. Wind the legs down all you like, the worktops probably won't move. The best way is to scribe the upstand to the worktop. As for the gaps behind where it meets the wall, clear silicone will suffice to stop water getting behind it.

 

[snadge]

thanks for your reply

I am unable to 'scribe' them in, I dont have the tools do something like that neatly.

thanks

 

[Jasonb]

Are you sure its not the skirting that is slightly bowed creating the gap? as thats more likely that the worktop dipping though the sink cut out could have weakened it. You may be able to wedge the skirting down while you fix it, put the wedge under the window sill.

Also the tops should not have been joined with a masons mitre.

J

 

[foxhole]

Agree skirting looks bowed, should be able to force into place before fixing, and should have a square joint to allow for expansion.

 

[curium]

Also the tops should not have been joined with a masons mitre.

J

I'll be getting a new kitchen fitted this year so out of curiosity, how should the work-tops have been joined?

Cheers!

 

[Jasonb]

If its a square edge worktop then they should just be butted together, as the wood can expand & contract across its width there is a risk of teh short mitred section opening up.

 

[snadge]

ive been looking at it and it does look a little bowed like
is there any colored filer stuff that can close up the gap thats near enough same colour?

whats the best way of fixing them to the wall? no more nails?


thanks

 

[Symptoms]

thanks for your reply

I am unable to 'scribe' them in, I dont have the tools do something like that neatly.

thanks

£10 for a cheepo block plane is the only tool you'll need, Oh, and a pencil/compass combo from your school geometry set. Position the upstand in position, set the compass/pencil to match the base gap, trail the pencil/compass combo along the worktop to produce the line to plane to.