I have had a pipe leak which has been going on for about 3 weeks. I have a suspended floor and can see in through a ventilation grate from outside of the house. The floor joists are soaking wet. I have stopped the leak but think I can see some mould or whiting of the wood. What do I need to do??? Help
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- Thread starter asdfrt
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What do you mean by "I have stopped the leak"?
How do you know it was only leaking for three weeks?
Can you gain access to the area by crawling under the floor?
What kind of floor covering is in place above the leak area?
Can you take a photo through the air brick and post it on here?
How do you know it was only leaking for three weeks?
Can you gain access to the area by crawling under the floor?
What kind of floor covering is in place above the leak area?
Can you take a photo through the air brick and post it on here?
Hello Vinn. Thanks for replying.
It was a pipe from the boiler. Thought it was the boiler hissing then found that one of the pipes was leaking just above the floor. Can't crawl under the floor unless I take some of it up. I have about a 7inch gap above this the wet wood with dry floor joists running in the opposite direction where we had to higher the floor in this area. there is then a membrane and wooden floorboards on top. I'll try and get a photo.
It was a pipe from the boiler. Thought it was the boiler hissing then found that one of the pipes was leaking just above the floor. Can't crawl under the floor unless I take some of it up. I have about a 7inch gap above this the wet wood with dry floor joists running in the opposite direction where we had to higher the floor in this area. there is then a membrane and wooden floorboards on top. I'll try and get a photo.
Are you saying that you have one set of joists fixed above the original joists?
However, most suspended floors were built with an access hatch - its often located under the stairs.
Crawling depends on how much space you have between the floor joists and the soil/oversite.
In three weeks its very doubtful that a fungal infection for wet rot has started.
If necessary, it might be possible to spray anti-fungal chemicals through the air brick - or to even smash the air brick out to gain better access for spraying.
However, most suspended floors were built with an access hatch - its often located under the stairs.
Crawling depends on how much space you have between the floor joists and the soil/oversite.
In three weeks its very doubtful that a fungal infection for wet rot has started.
If necessary, it might be possible to spray anti-fungal chemicals through the air brick - or to even smash the air brick out to gain better access for spraying.
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"Many" perhaps rather than "most".
Every suspended timber floor that I carcassed had a built-in, framed out hatch.
Some guys cut corners and left a few cut boards loose instead of trimming the opening.
Over the years hatches are often covered, and made inaccessible without lifting coverings but with experience and a little effort most hatches can be located.
People with little knowledge or background in the trades wouldn't know these things but why should a DIY'er have such practical understanding?
Some guys cut corners and left a few cut boards loose instead of trimming the opening.
Over the years hatches are often covered, and made inaccessible without lifting coverings but with experience and a little effort most hatches can be located.
People with little knowledge or background in the trades wouldn't know these things but why should a DIY'er have such practical understanding?
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I was expecting that
Worth mentioning home insurance would probably cover this to get professionals in. But if you want to diy you're going to need to get significant access under the floor. A hatch at least 3 boards width will need to be formed ideally in a little used area of floor.
Then once in assess the moisture content in the oversite. If it's wet to touch you should force warm ventilation from the house using fans playing into the void. Once dried out (you may not get it totally dry) spray an anti fungal chemical onto the timbers and the ground.
And don't do it again!
Then once in assess the moisture content in the oversite. If it's wet to touch you should force warm ventilation from the house using fans playing into the void. Once dried out (you may not get it totally dry) spray an anti fungal chemical onto the timbers and the ground.
And don't do it again!
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