I am looking at getting my fireplace changed and will get a gas safe engineer to do this. I wanted to confirm the best way to hide the gas pipe in the chimney so that the ugly silver pipe in front of the fireplace does not show. Can someone please confirm the best way to do this. Thanks.
Hide gas pipe for fireplace
- Thread starter arh
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Your gas safe engineer will advise as we are not allowed to give out gas information.
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To actually explain would:
A/ Take pages
B/ Be pointless.
Ask your RGI if his normal practice will be to totally conceal gas pipes. If he says no or demurs - go onto the next one.
Also ensure he would plan not to have any visible fixing. Same advice as above.
Has the floor dropped, or has there always been a gap between hearth and mantle legs? You shouldn't be able to get a fag paper on between
A/ Take pages
B/ Be pointless.
Ask your RGI if his normal practice will be to totally conceal gas pipes. If he says no or demurs - go onto the next one.
Also ensure he would plan not to have any visible fixing. Same advice as above.
Has the floor dropped, or has there always been a gap between hearth and mantle legs? You shouldn't be able to get a fag paper on between
Remove skirting to right of breast; Make a cavity in brickwork to house gas cock; drill through from side of chimney to make route for minibore; sleeve hole with 15mm copper to take minibore; replace skirting but so it can be removed by hand to hide gas cock. RGI will advise rest as to sealing up holes etc.
Nope.
You don't need an external gas cock. The fire nearly always has a service valve included. Run the gas pipe (15mm) into the builders opening during preparation.
That is a proper concealed fix.
I still like to be able to isolate outside appliance. We all have our methods!
Dill, are you registered? Your advice is from the 70's, and whereas we do all have our own ways, there are right ways and wrong ways. Yours is not technically "wrong"(although it could be argued that you are introducing unnecessary resistances), just not right.
Why do you feel a second valve is required?
OP: An external cock is NOT required. It is, nowadays, pretty pointless. Adds costs to a job needlessly.If visible they are ugly, and to chase out a wall and have a skirting prepared so it is easily removable is finding a solution to a problem that you have just created. Every fire that I have seen for many years has a built on isolation valve.
Make sure your installer is Gas Safe Registered, and has Gas Fires on his card - many do not. Importantly, make sure he has EXPERIENCE in fire place fitting.
Before doing any prepping, select an installer.Have him do a survey (be prepared to pay particularly of you do not proceed), and get his advice.
You do NOT need visible pipework, valves or mantle hanging brackets
Why do you feel a second valve is required?
OP: An external cock is NOT required. It is, nowadays, pretty pointless. Adds costs to a job needlessly.If visible they are ugly, and to chase out a wall and have a skirting prepared so it is easily removable is finding a solution to a problem that you have just created. Every fire that I have seen for many years has a built on isolation valve.
Make sure your installer is Gas Safe Registered, and has Gas Fires on his card - many do not. Importantly, make sure he has EXPERIENCE in fire place fitting.
Before doing any prepping, select an installer.Have him do a survey (be prepared to pay particularly of you do not proceed), and get his advice.
You do NOT need visible pipework, valves or mantle hanging brackets
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This gas appliance, the focal point fire has an outer rear case with sealed cut-outs for concealed connections, so bearing in mind that any service work on the gas control asembly would need the gas supply isolating and therefore requires an *accessible* appliance isolating valve as per the gas safety reg's.
You cannot normally get access to the rear without pulling the appliance away from the fixing. You cannot juggle a couple of bends with an isolating ball vave through a pipe access bung seal.
Be aware that this particular fire model is notoriously linked to several fatalities and many have been removed and discarded for that very reason.
In view of this and in the interests of safety i respectfully suggest no further detailed advice be given to the OP in this particular forum thread.
You cannot normally get access to the rear without pulling the appliance away from the fixing. You cannot juggle a couple of bends with an isolating ball vave through a pipe access bung seal.
Be aware that this particular fire model is notoriously linked to several fatalities and many have been removed and discarded for that very reason.
In view of this and in the interests of safety i respectfully suggest no further detailed advice be given to the OP in this particular forum thread.
I respectfully suggest that I wasn't giving gas advice - if you read the post. I was, in fact, encouraging the OP to be careful in his selection of RGI.
Re your comments about the fire. Do you mean FP as a (crap) maker, or as a fire type.? Particularly if the former, can ypu reveal the source of your info?
Some fires do have cut outs that are badly designed, but most have them big enough for the valve to pass through. Making an external valve reduntant.
Re your comments about the fire. Do you mean FP as a (crap) maker, or as a fire type.? Particularly if the former, can ypu reveal the source of your info?
Some fires do have cut outs that are badly designed, but most have them big enough for the valve to pass through. Making an external valve reduntant.
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