High levels of CO outside - Boiler shut down

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Hi,
I'm looking for some advice please.
I have a Baxi boiler (solo, I think) that was installed 9 years ago. Its been running fine but I hadn't had it serviced for a few years so I called a local firm last week to carry out a service just for peace of mind. The young guy that turned up took the front off, remarked at how clean it all was, said everything was clear and it all looked perfect and was working perfectly etc...until he took a meter reading outside that said there were dangerous levels of CO. He said he couldn't understand why he was getting the reading and would have to shut it down. He confirmed there was no leak of CO in the house. The following day his boss rang me and said he'd send another engineer round to have a look. I would have liked someone with experience but a young lad just out of college arrived. He did the same test and announced 10 mins later that my only option was a new boiler.
Fair enough if the boiler is faulty I need a new boiler but the fact that they can't give me a reason for why Im getting the high reading is troubling me when by their own words it all looks clean and clear and in perfect working order. If I'd called them out because it wasn't working properly I could also understand. Its only 9 years old, has been working perfectly (or so it seemed) and I have no CO leakage in the house.
Does anyone have any advice as to what could be causing the problem please as they cannot answer my question? I would just like more information before I part with a lot of money that I don't have.
Thank you in advance.
Laura
 
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There are many problems that can give high CO readings, many of which can be resolved by a good experienced engineer. Get a second opinion because the problem might just be a seal that has deteriorated and gone brittle over time that needs replacing.
 
If it was a Solo 3, then these are notorious for high co2 readings. The heat exchange baffles must be checked and the rear of the heat exchanger must be cleaned properly. Simply taking the case off and announcing that it's clean is not good enough. The boiler should be correctly adjusted and left for a minimum of 10/15 mins on full to thoroughly heat up before testing flue gasses. You don't need a new boiler. What you need is someone a bit more experienced.
 
Thank you for your quick replies.
I will call a different company tomorrow and ask for an experienced engineer.
Laura
 
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I think it may well be the Solo 3. I had a look on Baxi's website at their discontinued products and it looks to be the same model.
Thank you.
 
Get them to check the seal on the top of the boiler/flue elbow. Had a few where this has perished causing exhaust gasses mixing with fresh air.
 
Its a very basic test to measure the air at the INLET as this tests the integrity of the flue system.

You just need a proper experienced engineer.

I do have to say that I am not at all impressed by that firm sending two totally inexperienced people neither of whom could say what is wrong.

Clearly something is wrong! The question is what!

Turning off a boiler without diagnosing the fault is pretty incompetent in my view.

Tony
 
Yes, and a flue analysis print out attached to the job paper work for reference and comparison would be the norm for any experienced and fully competent RGI.
 
Probably just needs the heat exchanger cleaned, the fan impeller cleaned and the seal on the fan spigot checked.
 
Its a very basic test to measure the air at the INLET as this tests the integrity of the flue system.

Can you please explain how this test can be carried out?
 
Well Danny, you look at the service manual for the test point and pretend to be British Gas personal.

Tony
 
Well Danny, you look at the service manual for the test point and pretend to be British Gas personal.

Tony
 
Well tony, I have assumed the boiler to be a Solo 3 (OP did say 9 years old), so there is no access to 'air' tube to FGA the air stream unless the flue is side entry. Still there is no access in terms of dedicated test point

There is no test point either to test the flue gases, unless I am looking at the wrong manual

Regret I cannot assume to be a BG engineer as some of them have knowledge I can only dream of :cry:
 
Way i do it is take the airbox off and place analyser at the inner flue connection to the elbow, have had a few where the readings are nigh on the same as the exhaust outlet.
 

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