Hi there, I'm looking to book an engineer for a general service and check of flue gases etc but would like if I can NOT to have to present him with an intermittent snag namely high limit trips on a Worcester Greenstar Heatslave 25/32 oil combi boiler, if anyone is willing to share their expertise please.
The boiler has been doing this once every few weeks for a long time. It always starts as soon as the high limit is reset. I cannot categorically say whether it is tripping at the beginning middle or end of a CH or HW demand cycle as its in the garage, but I THINK it is tripping at the beginning of a HW cycle, based on the fact that whenever one of the family report no HW, the heating will have been operating normally at that point, and they'll have only tepid water from the store. The only other related symptom I can think of is that very occasionally like once every couple of months the hot water feels unusually hot (but no trip).
Unrelated (I think) things I've done just to help the joining of dots:
1. Recently we had a couple of burner lockouts (Riello RDB 2.2). It hasn't been serviced for a year so I changed the nozzle, checked electrode gaps, cleaned flame sensor, pulled the baffles and decoked. Still had a further lockout, so changed the coil and starter cap as they were easy and cheap to do. Noticed that someone when checking flue gases has lost the original plug because the brass one that's in there now is (not very well) secured with ptfe and doesn't have any locating lugs. How critical is a tight seal there as an aside whilst I'm boring you?? No further lockouts seen in the couple of weeks since.
2. I did have a weird period 3 or 4 months ago when rads where hot when HW heating, checked the diverter valve, disassembled the head, didn't find any explanation but it is possible I had put it into the A+B manual setting myself inadvertently before the snag.
3. The high limit is a popout plastic button which should protrude by 4 or 5mm but for the last couple of years doesn't not really push out at all when tripping, it pops out by about 0.5mm, but it is still doing its job and is reset easily.
Sorry this is a bit long, thanks for reading this - just trying to give everything I can. I think there are a number of things that could be causing this, but if there is a simple diagnostic step I can do like changing the stat or something that would make the engineer's life easier please educate me
The boiler has been doing this once every few weeks for a long time. It always starts as soon as the high limit is reset. I cannot categorically say whether it is tripping at the beginning middle or end of a CH or HW demand cycle as its in the garage, but I THINK it is tripping at the beginning of a HW cycle, based on the fact that whenever one of the family report no HW, the heating will have been operating normally at that point, and they'll have only tepid water from the store. The only other related symptom I can think of is that very occasionally like once every couple of months the hot water feels unusually hot (but no trip).
Unrelated (I think) things I've done just to help the joining of dots:
1. Recently we had a couple of burner lockouts (Riello RDB 2.2). It hasn't been serviced for a year so I changed the nozzle, checked electrode gaps, cleaned flame sensor, pulled the baffles and decoked. Still had a further lockout, so changed the coil and starter cap as they were easy and cheap to do. Noticed that someone when checking flue gases has lost the original plug because the brass one that's in there now is (not very well) secured with ptfe and doesn't have any locating lugs. How critical is a tight seal there as an aside whilst I'm boring you?? No further lockouts seen in the couple of weeks since.
2. I did have a weird period 3 or 4 months ago when rads where hot when HW heating, checked the diverter valve, disassembled the head, didn't find any explanation but it is possible I had put it into the A+B manual setting myself inadvertently before the snag.
3. The high limit is a popout plastic button which should protrude by 4 or 5mm but for the last couple of years doesn't not really push out at all when tripping, it pops out by about 0.5mm, but it is still doing its job and is reset easily.
Sorry this is a bit long, thanks for reading this - just trying to give everything I can. I think there are a number of things that could be causing this, but if there is a simple diagnostic step I can do like changing the stat or something that would make the engineer's life easier please educate me