Hinge trouble with underground gate automation.

[chris202]

Hi all,

Hoping to get some advice on a project I am currently doing to automate my gates.

I have purchased a set of Nice 24v metro underground units to hook up to my Iroko hardwood gates.

Due to space restraints, I have to set the boxes / units on the insides of the posts. This is fine, but where I am having trouble getting my head around is as follows:

The central pivot pin in the motor has to line up with the central axis of the top hinge. But, the pivot pin in he box sits about 3-4" in to the gate opening. In other words, vertically up from this point would be 3 -4" in to the gate.

Now, of course, the hinge pivot central point on the top hinge is located on the post, so quiet simply the two don't line up by 3 -4".

All I can think off is getting a Hinge that has its pivot point axis on the gate itself not the post. But I don't know if such an hinge exists?

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks........

 

[EightyTwo]

You either want the hinge eye close to the gate and a long gate hook in the post or the hook in the gate and a long eye in the post. Either way, put "gate hinge" into Screwfix's search box.

It depends from what the gate and post are made. Is it all timber or is there some metal? Then you need to decide on the look... Do you want a field gate hinge?

I don't know the Nice units, but am familiar with other makes. It is important to get the hinges lined up properly or you'll be in all sorts of trouble. If you can't get the geometry right and don't want to cut your gates down, you may have to go for the ram type gate openers and flog your underground units...

 

[bernardgreen]

How thick are the posts ? Would it be possible to cut a three inch deep slot into the post under ground level and fit the actuator in the slot. ?

Re-inforcing the rear of the post might then be necessary.

Whatever solution you decide on be aware of the safety requirements whic can be enforced if the gates border on a public highway or footpath.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/safetybulletins/electricgates2.htm

http://www.hse.gov.uk/press/2010/hse-electricgates.htm

 

[SimonH2]

It might not look the most elegant solution, but can you use a torsion bar with flexible joints ?
Ie, you bolt a bracket onto the gate (well up from the bottom), and fit a bar between this and the actuator. A flexible joint at each end allows the bracket and actuator to be out of line, and for the difference to alter as the gate moves. May also need some give vertically as well - but a simple slip joint at one end or other may do, or it might be combined with the couplings.
As to joints, you could use proper universal joints (like the ones used on car propshafts), or you can make a crude one with two bits of pipe. You need to pipes, one which will fit loosely inside the other. Cut two slots (directly opposite each other) in the outer pipe, drill a hole through the inner pipe, slide them together and fit a pin through. You now have a joint with some angular and longitudinal flexibility - if the angles are small enough then this might do you.