Hive install confusion

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I’ve read loads of posts and seen videos on installing hive and gave it a go but my setup seems to be different from others I’ve seen and I now need some advice so I can hopefully resolve without calling a professional in.
House is conventional boiler, hot water tank, 2 thermostats (up & down) all controlled by Drayton LP722.
I have bought a single and dual channel hive.

Queries;
Drayton doesn’t have 2 separate heating zones on it just 1, how do I connect the second single channel hive?

the answer to that might then help me with the next bit which is trying to remove the thermostats. I’ve traced all the wires for thermostats and valves but only videos I can find are not for multi zones and if I setup the same as what they have done it links both 2 port valves together which I don’t believe is correct as I can’t understand how each thermostat would know to work independently. B9590989-12EF-45E7-8B02-4F4A34D90B0D.jpegB2B84E34-5425-475B-8219-4C0D5C1E8F88.jpeg05E74354-6D05-4542-B9D6-56F47E79577E.jpeg52F67ABB-99D3-4641-B049-AC62F4BD9C98.jpegF75F29CF-1D3E-4D06-A240-130D2EB8FEEE.jpeg1723087E-CB43-487E-BE3F-31913BE3A121.jpeg
 
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It would appear that you can’t currently have independently controlled heating zones, other than turn heating on at programmer, then use either thermostat? If that’s the case, it’s just a case of swapping the wiring over.

Careful of the blue wire on wiring center, it’s sleeved brown, so will be a switched live, and is crimped.
 
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I already noticied the blue wire and have cut it at the crimped section and joined with a wago.

here’s some more pics if they help
 

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Additional pictures don’t really help. Do you have a separate programmer for upstairs heating? If not, then just transfer the wiring over.
 
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The last picture shows 3 zone valves, one will be for the HW and the other two must be for the dual zone heating. That being the case then wouldn't the dual channel Hive be wired into the HW zone and one of the heating zones (downstairs heating zone?) and the single channel Hive is wired into the other heating zone. I know the OP said the existing programmer only had one heating zone but that could be because someone at some point has replaced the programmer and didn't use one with dual heating zones.
 
My intention was to do exactly as you mentioned which is why I got the 2 different versions of hive.
The house is 7 years old and this is the original programmer that was installed when built. I did notice that there is an extra brown wire behind the programmer in a chock block and there is also one in the wiring centre, haven’t check to see if it’s the same cable yet but could that help?
 
Thinking about this a bit more the programmer may not need to be dual zone, the second zone will have its own programmer, as the zone valves control when the boiler fires up based on instructions from the thermostats. The programmers just turn the power on or off depending on the timer settings.

The Hive thermostats just replace the existing programmers.
 
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The only instructions I found that were kind of similar end up instructing me to remove the thermostats and to add 2 cables in the wiring centre which would connect both CH 2 port valves together, I haven’t done this yet but I’m assuming if I did then it would work but I would then only need the one hive which would act as a single thermostat for both floors?
 
The only instructions I found that were kind of similar end up instructing me to remove the thermostats and to add 2 cables in the wiring centre which would connect both CH 2 port valves together, I haven’t done this yet but I’m assuming if I did then it would work but I would then only need the one hive which would act as a single thermostat for both floors?
No that is wrong, the dual channel controls the HW zone valve and 1 zone valve, usually the downstairs but doesnt have to be, then the single hive receiver controls the other zone valve , you will have to remove and link out the two existing thermostats
 
The only instructions I found that were kind of similar end up instructing me to remove the thermostats and to add 2 cables in the wiring centre which would connect both CH 2 port valves together, I haven’t done this yet but I’m assuming if I did then it would work but I would then only need the one hive which would act as a single thermostat for both floors?
Do you have separate programmers for each heating zone? If not then the attached may help with identifying how your system is wired at present.
 

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I will admit I am also confused. The basic idea is to split the home into zones, and this can be done with hard wired zone valves, or TRV heads, or a combination of the two. But for Hive to work it needs the wall thermostat mounting in a room normally kept below 22°C as above that the demand for heat function does not work. In the main we use the hall to mount the wall thermostat, but this does not really work up-stairs, but having two zones I am sure does work, I have two zones, one main house and one the flat under the house.

However the wiring is relativity simple, you power the motorised valve with the thermostat, and the motorised valve powers the pump and boiler.

The motorised valves come ready with cable, so one can use the colours to work out wiring if you want to alter it.

upload_2022-5-8_22-20-10.png I note the over-marked bi-colour combination green-and-yellow wires, I know the regulations say single-core cables, but the statement before that says "The bi-colour combination green-and-yellow shall be used exclusively for identification of a protective conductor and this combination shall not be used for any, other purpose." has a full stop, and really bi-colour combination green-and-yellow wires should not be used for line, and it also says "A circuit protective conductor shall be run to and terminated at each point in wiring and at each accessory except a lampholder having no exposed-conductive-parts and suspended from such a point." and if the green/yellow is used for line, what wire is used to supply the earth?

I would guess one is to the cylinder thermostat, which may need both N/O as well as N/C contracts, but if that is the case seems likely a three port valve is used. I looked at pictures of the thermostat and can't see an over marked wire.

Neither of the valves here upload_2022-5-8_22-35-48.png seem to be three port, and 8 does say hot water off, but why? The wiring does not seem to make sense.
 

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