Hive Installation on Potterton Suprima Boiler

[Mike_Guthrie]

Afternoon all.

Bought a Hive from Amazon.

I have checked the current Boiler Timer a Potterton Mini Minder E. What I assumed the wires were in the correct place...

Here is the old timer back wiring Diagram

I have Installed the Hive backplate to the wires. Installed the Live, Netural & Earth Wires as per the instructions


I have the two Wires for the Hot Water on (pin 1) & off (pin 3) in the new Hive Timer. These were labeled from the old timer Pins 1 & 3

I have connected the wire from the Old Timer Pin 4 CH On to the Hive on Pin 4. The issue I have is what to connect to the Hive on Pin 2 for the CH Off. On the old Timer there was nothing in the Pin 2 for CH Off.

I have attached a wiring diagram for the boiler & the wires that connect to the Boiler



This unfortunatly is the mess behind the old timer with nothing Labeled. 4 off the wires connect to the old Thermostat that is in the hall. Blue/Red/Yellow & and an Earth




There appears to be two black wires that go from the plastic termination block to the Boiler . they Feed Pump Live & Mains Switched. These go into the first 2 connections on the above Photo and also have the yellow and red Wires connecting to them.

I have powered on the system and the Hive will advance the Hot water. I have even checked the timer works and this lights the boiler and also turns it off. This works. Its just the CH I am a bit stuck with.

If anyone can be of help that would be great.

Thanks

Mike

 

[flameport]

The Hive receive replaces the existing programmer, wiring is the same as the old, Pin 2 Ch Off is not required and not connected just as it was before.

The only other thing is to remove the old thermostat and connect L and SL together permanently (most likely Red and Yellow but this must be confirmed before connecting anything).

Nothing else needs to be changed.

 

[Mike_Guthrie]

The Hive receive replaces the existing programmer, wiring is the same as the old, Pin 2 Ch Off is not required and not connected just as it was before.

The only other thing is to remove the old thermostat and connect L and SL together permanently (most likely Red and Yellow but this must be confirmed before connecting anything).

Nothing else needs to be changed.

Now that Makes Sence as the Live and Switched Live are usually controlled by the Switch (old thermostat)

 

[Mike_Guthrie]

so I gave that a try and the Boiler goes to a red light. Resetting it does not take it off red.. If I put the wires back to as they were it works for the Hot Water again but not for the CH

 

[EFLImpudence]

The connections on the Hive are the same as your old programmer so if it used to work but now doesn't then something you have changed is not right.

Your post is not very clear.

If the boiler goes to lock out (red light on) and you cannot reset it how have you got the water to work?

If the water works and the central heating doesn't, have you connected the old thermostat wires correctly or set the Hive properly?

 

[ericmark]

The boiler instructions show it to be just a boiler all the control is done by using motorised valves.

There are plans often given a letter like the Y plan and C plan (also a W and S) which are used and depending which plan has been adopted it will allow different functions. Many controllers had a lock to remove or add functions to match the plan. In some cases you can't select central heating without hot water and the water does get hotter than really required. This

is an example of one of the plans there are many more.

So step one is work out which plan you have. Then you can work out what can be controlled.

 

[Mike_Guthrie]

Thanks Eric.

When I go home this evening I am going to check the 2 sets of cables I have in the Wall that are Red/Blue/Yellow/Earth. I know one of these sets runs from the Timer to the Old Temp Sensor that was in the Hall. I will Stick a Multi meter on and read the resistance to identify the cables.

I have had a look online and it looks like the old Temp Sensor would have been Switched to Complete the circuit to turn on the Central Heating. I think once I identify the wires I don't need the easier it maybe.

If not I have a friend who is an Electrician and a friend who is a Boiler Engineer who can come out and see what is what.

Mike

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have had a look online and it looks like the old Temp Sensor would have been Switched to Complete the circuit to turn on the Central Heating.

Of course.
That's why Flameport told you to join the L and SL - permanently on.
Have you not done this?
Although, if set to call for heat it will still work.

I think once I identify the wires I don't need the easier it maybe.

You will need the same wires that you needed before.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Makes a change from reading about problems getting Nests to work...

And I know I should, but CBA to look right now - is it an OpenTherm device?

 

[flameport]

so I gave that a try and the Boiler goes to a red light. Resetting it does not take it off red.

A red light on that boiler is not a fault, and therefore can't be reset.
It means the mains power is on and heat is not required - it's default state.

With the old Mini Minder, was it possible to have the heating on without the hot water, or did the hot water slider move with the heating one?

 

[Mike_Guthrie]

I have been away in London this weekend for work. However I have been doing some reading and research on the flight down

I found out the wires that connected the old stat and traced them back a panel in the cupboard where the tank is housed. I then found more cables.

I then followed this diagram

and connected pin 4 on the hive to the White cable powering the valve. Tried the Central Heating and it works.

I was confused cause I assumed there was more wires but I had no idea where they were (just moved in you see)

Thanks for all your help. Now to tidy up the mess before the Mrs moans about it

 

[EFLImpudence]

Well done.

If you are interested, this is how the valve works:
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm