Hive Wiring

[jon botting]

Currently about to set up hive active heating with a combi boiler so bought the single channel receiver.
At present I have a Danfoss Randallset1 and a Honewell hard wired thermostat which I am going to replace however I would like confirmation that I am going to wire it correctly and was wondering if I could get some help.
Have posted pics of current setup and the hive setup that is required my question is, is what I propose correct?
5 from the Danfoss which I believe is the common to 1 on the Hive
4 from the Danfoss which I believe is Heating on to 3 on the Hive
Live and neutral same on Danfoss as Hive
Then join 1 and 3 together in a connector block where the existing stat is
Thanks in anticipation

Attached Files:


Read more:

 

[stem]

That sounds reasonable to me.

The single channel Hive incorporates both time and temperature control in a single unit. At the moment, you have a Danfoss unit controlling the time and a Honeywell Room Thermostat the temperature.

Usually the easiest way is to locate the Hive receiver where the Danfoss programmer is. N and L are a straight forward swap over like for like.

Danfoss 5 is the common and corresponds with the Hive single channel receiver 1 also called common

Danfoss 4 is labelled NO (Normally Open) and corresponds with the Hive single channel receiver 3 'Heating On' which is also labelled NO

So now to the room thermostat. The easiest solution is to simply leave it installed and turn it to its maximum setting [30 deg C] so that it doesn't interfere with the operation of the Hive.

If you want to remove the old room thermostat, trace the cable from the room thermostat back to its origin and note where the wires are connected. Then disconnect all 4 wires: red / yellow / blue / earth, and remove the cable completely. Then insert a link to join together where you have just removed the red and yellow wires from to complete the circuit.

It would work if you joined the thermostat wires in 1 & 3 together, but from an electrical view it would be bad practice as you would have a live cable in place that isn't connected to an accessory. It would be better to remove it.

 

[jon botting]

Thanks for that, I have just had a better look at all the wiring and all is not as it seems. All L N and E as as you would expect. On the boiler terminals 3 & 4 are used 3 goes to 5 on the timer ( marked com on their manual) 4 has been moved and bypasses the timer and now goes straight to 3 on the stat, terminal 2 on the stat although wired has been terminated. Terminal 4 on the timer goes to terminal 1 on the stat. Not sure what to do now, I guess I just wire 3 & 4 from the boiler to 1 & 3 on the hive and discard the thermostat and it’s wiring

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/hive-wiring.552584/#ixzz6XlLHsLRw

 

[stem]

That all sounds quite normal. I usually discard everything and start from scratch anyway, but for DIY sometimes it's easier to describe how to replace what's already there. Either way are fine.

Just a couple of points though, if your boiler is of the design where you need to remove a room sealed cover to access the wiring terminals (with some boilers you do others you don't) then accessing them is not a DIY job. It should only be done by an RGI (Gas Safe engineer) who can perform the necessary checks to make sure that it's safely sealed up again properly.

Also, you shouldn't really have posted your question in different forums. It's against forum rule No 5 because it causes confusion when there are two separate threads running on the same subject. When I answered this one I didn't realise that there was another thread elsewhere already running.

 

[jon botting]

Thanks for your reply. It’s my first post and I thought I had probably posted in the wrong forum, so I won’t do that again.
So you think I should just wire 3 & 4 from the boiler to 1 & 3 on the hive and discard the thermostat and it’s wiring

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/hive-wiring.552572/#ixzz6XlelwL3M

 

[stem]

Depends what terminal numbers 3 & 4 on the boiler represent. You don't give a make or model and there are lots of boilers out there and lots of terminal variations. However, if 3 & 4 are presently wired to the switching elements of the existing thermostat and programmer in series, which is how I understand it to be from your description, then that sounds good to me.

 

[jon botting]

Thanks for that, it’s an old vaillant turbomax it says on their set up instructions, Room thermostat, 230 V: connections 3, 4 and 5 and as you correctly understood 3 & 4 are currently being used.
One question at present the mains supply to the boiler is wired from Danfoss timer from a 3a fused supply. Is this OK or should the boiler be wired direct from the 3a fused supply and then linked back from the boiler to the timer

 

[stem]

The boiler and any related control system components connected to it should all be fed from the same 3A fused supply. So that the entire heating system is isolated from the same place.

If the above diagram I have from a Vaillant Turbomax manual is applicable to the terminals at your boiler, then:

1) Remove the existing room thermostat, programmer and their associated cables.

2) The 3A fused 230V mains supply goes to the boiler L, N & E terminals as a shown, and also to Hive L & N (Hive doesn't need an earth connection but an Earth Tether is provided to secure an earth wire safely out of the way)

3) Boiler 3 goes to Hive 1 'Common'

4) Boiler 4 goes to Hive 3 'Heating On'

No connection is made to boiler 5.

 

[jon botting]

Thanks very much, that is brilliant information and the schematic very helpful