Hive wiring

[capper]

Hi there,

Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere I'm new to this.

I am trying to replace my thermostat with a hive Mini. My current thermostat is a Horstmann C-STAT 17-B & I have an ideal logic combi ESP1 30 boiler.

I've attached a photo of the wiring of my current thermostat (the grey wire is not attached to anything) & the hive backplate too.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[ericmark]

So you want to replace a battery powered thermostat with a mains power thermostat, so only way is to get mains to the thermostat/hub. It seems the boiler can be controlled with 230 volt

but my question would be why Hive with a Opentherm enabled boiler? if fitting a new thermostat would it not be better to use OpenTherm, not that much between Hive and Wiser price wise so why fit a cheap thermostat like Hive, it is spoiling the ship for halfpenny of tar.

But Wiser also needs 230 volt power, about the only one I know is battery powered and smart is Nest e, but Nest e will not connect to TRV heads, not sure about the Tado range, think there may be a battery powered version.

Some boilers the electrical connections are in the room sealed part, and needs gas safe person to work on it, others are not, and I don't know which yours is, but clearly can't swap battery to mains powered without wiring in the extra mains power.

 

[capper]

Hey, thanks for the advice.

I can run a mains line from a plug socket to it for power, could you lend any advice based on that?

I got gifted the hive and am wanting to use it as my thermostat is mounted at the back of a shelving unit, so am wanting to replace it with a receiver & wireless thermostat so I don't have to reach back there all the time.

Cheers

 

[RandomGrinch]

As Eric mentions above, your Hive receiver needs to be supplied with mains power.
He also correctly mentions that, taking the cover off your boiler to access the wiring connections, breaks the room sealing of the boiler and requires an RGI.

Without knowing how the other end of the cable is connected, all we can do is guess.
Given the existing wiring, we can safely attempt to wire up the Hive and see what happens. The worst that can happen is it won't work.

With the power safely isolated; you can try connecting the grey wire to N on the Hive backplate (Assuming single channel Hive).
The Brown wire to L
The Black wire to terminal 3
The Green/Yellow wire to the earth terminal
And add a short link wire between L and terminal 1.

 

[EFLImpudence]

You fit the receiver near the boiler where all the necessary wiring is and remove the existing cable to the thermostat position then the Hive thermostat can go wherever you want.

 

[ericmark]

You fit the receiver near the boiler where all the necessary wiring is and remove the existing cable to the thermostat position then the Hive thermostat can go wherever you want.

This is likely the best option, I have Wiser wired that way, tried moving the wireless thermostat bit around to find best place, however found the room still cool as the cat was sleeping on the thermostat, so had to fix it to the wall.

Some thermostats are designed to use power from other points, Nest Gen 3 for example has a USB option so thermostat is supplied from some random socket with the USB power supply plugged in.

Most combine the power supply in the thermostat, and we are told we should take the supply from same circuit is the boiler, if not volt free then it must come from the boiler circuit, but single channel Hive and Wiser (same back plate) are volt free, so no real problem taking the supply from elsewhere unless like me using an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) it would be rather pointless having an UPS if the thermostat could not turn it on.

I had considered Hive, as oil fired so no OpenTherm, but Hive will not accept demands for heat if main thermostat is over 22ºC and so went for Wiser. Since as yet no linked TRV heads, it would have made no difference.