Measure the hob then run 2in masking tape approximately where the hob will sit on the worktop. Mark out the exact position of the hob on the masking tape. Then mark the inset (i.e. the amount that the hob will overlay the worktop) on the INSIDE of your original lines. Drill through at the corners and "join the holes" with a jigsaw and a sharp blade. Drop the hob into the hole and adjust as necessary. When it fits seal the exoposed chipboard edges with silicone (makes the top waterproof against spillages) - but use the manufacturer's foam tape to seal the joint between the underside of the hob and the worktop surface - if you silicone it down you may never get it up agaib without damaging either the wortktop or the hob
hey thanks ,sounds so easy once its pointed out ,thankyou so much ! my hubby is totally hopeless when it comes to diy so i have to try and do things myself , thankyou
Our German Ceramic hob came with a template.
It also had I think 4 sides that were screwed into the sides of the worktop
& then the hob clipped in the framework & then sealed on its own robber seal.
It is best to seal any cutouts on worktops with PVA glue.
Hope this helps.
JonB
If you do make sure that you use exterior grade PVA (e.g. Evostick in the blue bottle, not the green one) as this is relativelu moisture resistant (although not as good as silicone). Interior grade PVA (like Evostik green) is not water/moisture proof and will dissolve over time allowing the ingress of spillages into the worktop edges - result: blown worktop. I've seen enough to make me wary of low-grade PVAs
hey thanks ,sounds so easy once its pointed out ,thankyou so much ! my hubby is totally hopeless when it comes to diy so i have to try and do things myself , thankyou
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