Hobs and Ovens (again)

[lcam]

I am the proud new owner of an electic Hobb and Oven.

The previous owner of my flat only had a cooker and so the kitchen is wired with a wall switch/socket for the cooker with a single supply below counter level.

Is it possible to modify (split?) this supply in some way in order to attach both my hobb (30A) and oven (13A)? Can I do this myself or should I get a sparky?

Cheers

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Jolly good question - were you hoping for a simple answer?

First, from your description you don't need to split it - assuming that by the term "wall switch/socket" you mean a cooker control unit like this:

and by "a single supply below counter level" you mean an outlet plate like this:

then you can wire the hob to the control unit "cooker" switch, and plug the oven into the socket. Provided the circuit has been properly installed, the worst that will happen is that the fuse/MCB will blow/trip if you've put too much load on it.

As to how much load you need to be able to support, you can put your faith in the Welshman, Dai Versity, as he thinks you'll not need more than 21A for your combination (or 29A if you assume he wasn't envisaging an oven plugged into the socket). (See this topic for more details).

Or you can add 30A + 13A = 43A.

As a quick summary - if your cooker circuit is wired with 4mm cable and a 30/32A MCB, then you might be alright, if it's 6mm and 40A then you will be alright.

PS - shoulda got a gas hob......

 

[sterose]

I am the proud new owner of an electic Hobb and Oven.

The previous owner of my flat only had a cooker and so the kitchen is wired with a wall switch/socket for the cooker with a single supply below counter level.

Is it possible to modify (split?) this supply in some way in order to attach both my hobb (30A) and oven (13A)? Can I do this myself or should I get a sparky?

Cheers

I'm curious as to why your hob is 30amps?

Sounds a bit on the high side. A whole electric cooker, with hob, grill, and oven together, rarely takes 30amps if that.

Either way, if you want both to run off the same cable, run some new 6mm cable, run it into the 'main' switch (the one above the counter top), then run a length from this switch to connect to the '30amp' hob. To connect the 13amp oven, run some more 2.5mm cable out of the main switch and into a FCU (13amp fuse fitted), and connect the oven from this.

Also, make sure your breaker in the CU is 40amps, if your hob is really 30amps, and if so, consider also using 10mm cable for the run.

I think this sounds right, and I hope it is clear enough, and anyone who disagrees, please correct me...

 

[supersparks]

I'm curious as to why your hob is 30amps?
-most are

Sounds a bit on the high side. A whole electric cooker, with hob, grill, and oven together, rarely takes 30amps if that.
unlikly, more like 45, but oven would normaly go on ring

Either way, if you want both to run off the same cable, run some new 6mm cable, run it into the 'main' switch (the one above the counter top), then run a length from this switch to connect to the '30amp' hob. To connect the 13amp oven, run some more 2.5mm cable out of the main switch and into a FCU (13amp fuse fitted), and connect the oven from this.
so what happens if there is fault on the 2.5? BANG! you must use 6mm to a spur/plugsocket then 2.5 out from the 13amp fuse

Also, make sure your breaker in the CU is 40amps, if your hob is really 30amps, and if so, consider also using 10mm cable for the run.
yes, i agree 40amps would be an idea, but 32amps would be fine if there is 6mm at the mo