holes in ceiling. (moved from Projects)

[glw34]

So a rogue plumber installed a bath which then leaked into my kitchen ceiling, leaving a HomeServe guy no option but to carve two holes in the ceiling to get to the problem. So now I'm left with two jigsaw shaped ceiling parts to reattach (see image) Now while this may be bread and butter for the majority of you, I am a DIY novice to say the least.

I am thinking some adhesive/polyfilla and a lick of paint to finish it off?! Any recommendations or pointers would be greatly received.

Thanks

 

[roboughton]

Depending on the size you could fit a hatch into at least one of them to access that area in future. if you have the cut-outs you can put some battens across and then screw it all back in then get plasterer in to fix it.

 

[JohnD]

I think the hatch is a very good idea. It could give access to the under-bath or under-shower plumbing and waste, which are relatively common causes of leaks and quite difficult to get at.

In my case the kitchen is beneath, so judicious positioning might allow any water to drip or gush onto the sink or drainer below, minimising damage.

I'm thinking a plastic hatch, or WBP ply of the same thickness as the plasterboard, undercoated smooth and painted to match the ceiling. Unless you have uplighters, it might not be very conspicuous.

I suppose a multicutter will go through plasterboard? I've only used the score and snap method. What's least dusty?

 

[rochester plasterer]

Patch it in with plasterboard and reskim the ceiling. If the plumbing is done correctly there's no need to have a hatch in your ceiling just in case lol

 

[phatboy]

I would probably find the ceiling beams and cut back to them, possibly making 1 big hole instead of the 2. Re-board the patch, and a good plasterer could hide it pretty well. Then it's a mist coat and a couple of goes with filler (drywall jointing compound is excellent for this, quick drying and easy to sand), and 2 coats of paint - 1 over the patch and 1 over the whole ceiling.

Will your insurance pay for this?

 

[cjard]

I suppose a multicutter will go through plasterboard? I've only used the score and snap method. What's least dusty?

Oscillating Multitools go through it really well.. I use a three quarters circle cutting head on mine- just push into the board to start, then saw In a direction.. Some tips:

The cut will be neater if you run the tool along the ceiling first and cut a shallow groove that you then follow on the way back

The paper back of the plasterboard does end up a bit more ragged at the cut, not much can be done other than making sure you cut all the way through in one spot then move the tool..

If you cut through in stages you'll find at the vibrations more easily smash the plaster up as you near the backing paper: keep the board as solid as possible by not cutting in stages

The tool will generally realise a "waterfall" of dust from the leading edge of the cut. It's not in of itself a problem until the draft from the tools cooling fan blows it in your face

A willing helper holding a running vacuum cleaner at the leading edge of the cut makes for a very dust free job indeed

Be careful not to cut through any wires that may be lying on the plasterboard out of view. While a multitool won't easily sever them, it will chew through the insulation reasonably easily and could bridge the cores or liven up the blade

 

[motorbiking]

Score and snap method creates less mess.. but as other say, cut a new piece to cover the hole, screw to ceiling and use a patching plaster to cover the cut line. Then a sanding sponge or fine sandpaper to blend in the patching plaster. It will take a couple of goes as it shrinks, when you are happy its smooth - just paint it as normal It will be invisible if you take your time with the sand paper.