Home Bar in Garage

[Tjtrev]

Hi folks

I'm moving house in the next few weeks to a new build with detached 20 x 12 garage. I'll be converting the garage into a home bar.

The garage is single skin (brick build) and the external is rendered. The floor is concrete and the roof I'm not sure on, however it's pointed with internal batons on display.

These are my plans to convert the garage:

Walls
-Dob and dab 12.5mm insulated plasterboard
-Paint two walls
-Treat two walls with emulsion before putting up wallpaper

Door
Standard up and over door.
-DPM tape to seal around the door
-Polystyrene sheets spray glued across door until level with brick wall.
-Thermal insulation foil across door and taped to surrounding wall edge.
-Insulated plasterboard over the top, same as the other walls.

Celing
-Celotax between batons
-Insulated plasterboard fixed on top, across ceiling batons

Floor
-DPM underlay
-Thick vinyl

What do you guys think of the above plan? Does it look good for insulation/soundproofing or should I be taking other steps?

I'm keen to hang heavy wooden shelves and a large TV from the walls. Would this be feasible with plasterboard? I've looked into DryLine Pro, however there was comments that this could damage the plasterboard. Do you have any recommendations on how I could approach this?

Thanks very much in advance!
Trevor

 

[Dynamitebloke]

I'll leave the experts to answer the questions on the plans, I'm looking to do a similar project very soon so will keep an eye on this post.. But for attaching heavy items to plasterboard I've always used Gripit fixings.. They were featured on Dragons Den and are extremely good..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=gripit...c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0a9-21&ref=pd_sl_3b3xscxh3g_e

 

[SFK]

As a DIYer my suggestion would be:
1) Behind garage door a Stud wall. (Note that some people step this stud wall in by a 30cm or 100cm so they can open garage door and put tools and lawnmower in this narrow space.

2) Concrete floor is always going to be cold. So you always get cold feet. So I put down 25mm thick studs flat on floor at 60cm separation (to match floor used), filled with 1 inch celotex, tape all edges with foil tape so have a vapour barrier, and floor 2400mm x 1200mm sheets of ply (or green chipboard of on budget).

3) Cold will raise up wall from concrete floor, so I would also put Dob and dab 12.5mm insulated plasterboard on ALL the walls.

4) If ceiling is currently open and when you say Battons you mean Joists, For ceiling might be better and much cheaper to use thick layers of Loft insulation between joists. This is because Loft insulation also absorbs sound better and I found it damped the sound leaving through the loft when TV on loud.

5) You also need ventilation and heating, so also consider wiring for extractor fan and electric heaters.

6) Also do not forget Ethernet cable and TV wire.

7) Make sure you have second exit (a window) point in case of fire in house which you might not know about until too late if in connected garage.

8) And fit smoke alarms in garage that you can hear in house.

9) To put TV up I would use Fame Fixings (Long screws with long raw plugs) to go through plaster, insulation into brick wall.

SFK

 

[LondonLad21]

This is worth a read for a long lasting way to do the walls.

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/garage-conversion-inside-wall-construction.233260/

 

[daggermark]

If you are dotting & dabbing the plasterboard, you can probably just use longer screws and plugs to attach the shelves to the underlying brickwork. I think you'd be better off insulating it properly as per the linked thread though.

If you decide to run studwork, put your shelf brackets over the studs so you have something solid to screw into. TV brackets can also screw into studwork. Alternatively, you can run noggins between your studs at the required height before your board it up, and then screw shelf brackets into those.

 

[Tjtrev]

Thank you all for your replies, much appreciated.

I guess I should have highlighted that saving internal space is really important as it'll be a tight squeeze for shots at the sides of the pool table.

I appreciate there are far better ways of insulating the walls, however if I were to dob and dab insulated plasterboard as described, would this provide any meaningful insulation? I don't mind running expensive heaters to keep the temperature up Also, if I were to fix the plasterboard with screws straight to the brick wall, would this be more or less beneficial than the dob and dab method?

 

[SFK]

T,
Pleasure.

Insulated plasterboard on all walls will bring about a good improvement.

But I would again say also do the floor as this does make a big difference. Better to use loft insulation between roof joists and use saved money to put Celotex layer on floor. (Loft insulation also is better at sound dampening over celotex).

Dot and dab is better than screws into brick (as the screw will transfer the cold/heat from the brick through the insulation into the plaster - wood studs reduce this effect).

For me garage door (as well as floor) way a big issue as it had no thermal mass so changed temperature rapidly, and acted as a monstor sized radiator. Also allows drafts around sides. So would focus on detailing that. (Best insulation and draft proofing as you suggested.

SFK