Honeywell T3R to Hive Thermostat

[guy_will]

Hi, looking for advice on switching over as per the title. I've read over a few of the other posts on here but can't see wiring like how my Honeywell thermostat.
There's too brown going to live, they would just go in Live on the Hive?
Two blue going to neutral, same on to neutral on the Hive?
Earth i get.
So i just replicate the above on the hive, right?

But it's where A & B are concerned, which one goes where on the hive?

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[ericmark]

Hive Permanent neutral = Honeywell T3R N
Hive Permanent live (should be called line) = Honeywell T3R L
Hive Permanent Common = Honeywell T3R A
Hive Permanent Heating off (N/C) = Honeywell T3R C (not used)
Hive Permanent Heating on (N/O) = Honeywell T3R B
Earths to Hive earth tether.

In real terms swapping A and B would not matter, I am assuming Hive single channel.

 

[guy_will]

Thanks, indeed single channel. Sorry I should mentioned that.

I’ll give that a go, thank you for the advice!

Update: All wired up, for some reason the Hub (connected to the boiler) won't light up. Unresponsive when the button is pressed too. Any ideas?

 

[ianmcd]

Any existing timer will have to be set to constantly on , the Hive will over-ride it

 

[ericmark]

There is something odd with original wiring, three cables but only one earth wire connected, if wired FCU to thermostat base then to boiler then two earths would be connected, and if wired FCU to boiler then thermostat base then only two cables.

The 3TR

is the same as Hive with a base and wireless link to thermostat so it should have been wired the same, @ianmcd comments are not really valid with the old thermostat you had, as it was also a programmable thermostat, should have been an easy swap.

 

[ianmcd]

Post pics of the wiring at both ends as it is now,and a pic of the control panel on the boiler

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Could be the photo, but is there a break in the blue cable in A, near where the earth has been cut?

 

[ianmcd]

comments are not really valid with the old thermostat you had, as it was also a programmable thermostat

So you know that the boiler doesnt have a built in timer then genius ?

 

[ericmark]

So you know that the boiler doesnt have a built in timer then genius ?

It could have, but that hardly matters, changing one volt free programmable mains powered thermostat for another volt free programmable mains powered thermostat is really like for like, and he should not need to worry about other controls.

 

[ianmcd]

It could have, but that hardly matters, changing one volt free programmable mains powered thermostat for another volt free programmable mains powered thermostat is really like for like, and he should not need to worry about other controls.

not if he has changed the settings on another timer

 

[ericmark]

Update: All wired up, for some reason the Hub (connected to the boiler) won't light up. Unresponsive when the button is pressed too. Any ideas?

This points to no supply, had you used a mechanical thermostat before I would say no neutral, had the previous system had separate thermostat and programmer I would say left a thermostat wired in some where, but it was really a like for like replacement, but I can't see why three cables as said before, would have expected only 2.

So looking at original wiring and how untidy, my guess is a stray wire has caused a short and blown a fuse. With a good install you should not see copper, but I know my Nest heat link was very cramped, so I fitted a wiring centre under the heat link, so one hole = one cable. Never fitted Hive, so not sure how tight, but stray filament in cable causing short and blowing fuse seems most likely.